For starters, I drive a 1997 F-350 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3L Powerstroke.

OK guys, ... I've been "not so active" on this forum really, and frankly, after I bought a Corvette in 06' and then broke my Z06 ... (yeah, yeah... I know... stupid.) I had put the truck on the back burner to the vette...

In any case, I need to put some TLC into my truck. I've been off and on reading this and that on this forum for over the last 6 years or so. I'm going to need a friend who wouldn't mind coming out to Katy TX and helping a guy out. I'd be willing to return the favor for his/her truck and provide lots of beer.

Long story short, this truck has a laundry list of problems. Any help is appreciated... If I can not get this thing working/running well for cheap, it's just going to get sold at a hellova loss and I'm gonna go get a pos beater daily driver, and stop offerin to help move things at my work... (I work as a CAD engineer in the steel fabrication / machining industry) and I'll have to deal with going without... The way this has been going its just dumb to let this truck fall apart and not maintain it.

In any case, here's a list of problems I can name off pretty easy: (I'm sure there are plenty more)

1- Transfer Case (something internally got really boogered up when I helped a college buddy get un-stuck in mud, and frankly, I think I need a shop to fix it. It makes one hell of a nasty noise when its loaded in and out of gear in 4wd low and neither of the front axle locking hubs will engage, I'm stuck in 2WD)

2- Suspension ... The bushings are all shot to hell. At about 38-42mph it will sporadically and violently shake the steering column and vibrate at a slow but strong rattle, rocking the truck pretty hard... steering a quick tug left-right will usually remedy this for a little while but it will come back. (EDIT: deduced to a steering Box problem) (2nd update: the bearings inside the box are wearing out, I can "rig" it to work temporarially, or at least, use the last life in the box, by tightening the nut on the front, and adding a stabalizer, I'm going to need some help there, I can't figure out what to bolt the far end to when I jam it in there)

3- Alignment, it pulls to the right hard enough to bother you - I had it professionally checked about 10 years ago, told me that it was a bent (a-frame I think) and that it needed to be replaced to correct the alignment. Maybe I can pull this off the truck, put it under a press brake and fix it? (FIXED)

4- Fuel leak (under pressure) I get a slow drip out of the V of the block somewhere... not sure exactly, I know it was leaking from the H2O sensor, replaced it. But its still leaking from somewhere.(FIXED)

5- Automatic Tranny shifts pretty rough between gears, the clutch is not quite right anymore (60,000 miles on last overhaul) (FIXED)

6- Friggin drivers side door handle keeps breaking off in my hand. (nuff said) on # 4 now...(FIXED)

7- Drivers side power window motor will hang and get stuck if I roll the window all the way up (50% chance or so) I've pulled the door apart, and greased everything I possibly can. (its REALLY irritating when the door handle is broken... can't get out.) (greased up the gears again and remedied the problem for now)

8- Passenger Rear window motor same kinda trouble, doesn't get stuck as bad tho, greased it too... (tried more grease, still gets stuck ~20% of the time, will come down after a repeated up/down on the motor however)

9- Drivers Rear Door automatic lock motor is poor, it won't unlock unless you press unlock about 30 times. I ripped the plastic "pull" part off trying to manually unlock it one day years ago when I had to get groceries.

10- The carriage bolts on the air cleaner suck really bad. I don't know if they are supposed to be spring loaded so they will catch or what, but they won't tighten on anything.

11- Rear fuel tank, I think its a bad floater and I'm just running it dry on fuel, but if I run it to much less than 1/8 of a tank, (on the dash) it causes the motor to run EXTREMELY rough until I switch it back to the front tank.

12- Tailgate release handle is all gummed up since I bought the truck, you almost have to kick it for the latch to release.

13- I dunno if something on the serpentine pully system is out of whack or not, but I've burned 1 alternator, 3 vaccumn pumps, 1 water pump, and now (yesterday) an AC compressor ... (the kicker to **** me off... this 107 deg heat is NOT my friend) in the last 8 years. (Issue inspected, no problem)

14- Cracked windshield... yeah, I hit a big *** bird in west Texas on HWY 84 out by Lubbock.. its been spidering cracks all over for 10 years, looks like poop. Has about a dozen rock chips too. Darn glass guys want like 340$ to replace it! I am appaled at that cost, for a windshield?!

15- Window tint... bubbles, ripples, peeling... it needs to go.

16- Needs upgrades. Avg 11 mpg is not good. (shelved, gonna sell the truck)

17- Glow plugs. I know they are at least 10 years old. Starting in the winter, is next to impossible.

18- Had a dash light go out, that bugger is gonna be tricky to replace...

19- the E-brake cable is either broke or extremely loose, stepping on it has little to no effect. (recrimped and tightened the cable, kinda fixed the issue)

20- Damn tailgate fell off driving last winter, (moving a queen size mattress set) and drug it about 100 feet... Its got a tore up corner about 2"x4" on the top right side, needs to get ground back to the raw steel and primered so the rust will stop. (at the very least)

21- some guy at a bar hit my passenger rear view mirror (with a truck or something), its not broken off, but the housing is cracked pretty bad around the base, dunno if its "fixable" or just needs to be replaced...

22- lots of little things here and there, broken AC vents, cracks in the dash, hole in the seat, lining on the inside of the center cosole is crumbling all over etc.

The good part... Its 100% stock save for a bedliner, toolbox with bad hydraulic springs, oversize tires, grill guard, and aluminum rims.


anyone friendly have a shop nearby?
Maybe I can get a "Holy crap! You gotta fix a whole lotta @!$%&! discount?" .... whats that TV commercial for auto insurance?


in any case... I need a truck friend that doesn't drive a Nissan Titan or Dodge and is all "ooo booo Ford, bla bla bla" about everything...

 

I did a couple of dash bulbs, and I thought they were easy to do. I'm too lazy to comment on anything else on your thread right now, but I'll subscribe and comment on more of it tomorrow.

 

Your poor fuel economy could be due to your fuel leak, depending on how bad it is.

When tailgate latches get all messed up and tough, I like to spray down the mechanisms with WD-40 or a similar lubricant. It's the lazy man's way of repairing it, but I've fixed two tailgate latches that way.

The Best way to fix your air cleaner issues would be a RiffRaff 6637. No more messing with the carriage bolts.

 

Wow! That's a list man. Fortunately for you there is a lot of easy things on there that can be done quick and probably cheap. Answers in blue.

 

well, we finally got some rain here in Houston, and the wet road got the better of me today.

Took a turn into the office industrial park at about 4 mph (near 529 and Eldridge), and I guess I hydroplaned, I dunno, bumped the curb with the Front left tire, not that hard (2-3 mph maybe), but I suppose it was a square enough impact that it bent the steering link pretty good. Shaped like a bananna now. It seemed to fix the truck pulling right, but now the wheel is cocked 180 degrees to drive straight. I decided since it needs to be replaced, and the alignment will be required too, and I can't fix the alignment myself, I drove it around the corner and put it on a lift at a local shop. I'm going to hear back from them this morning/afternoon with an inspection report. I'll try to post up the inspection ticket and let you guys rummage over what the bill reads, maybe you guys can give me a tip or two on which tie rods, bushings, etc. to let them replace, and which I need to replace. I've only got time on my hands for about 3-4 hours of work, per weekend, tops. I've got a new baby, 2 jobs, and my father just had heart surgery... Sooo a "fix it all yourself" option isn't gonna work. I'm trying to not let this repair jump over 1,000$ which, in my light, probably will cost about 1,800$ to have them fix (guessing)

I'm just needing advice.


(EDIT) Oh, and I need to add #23 to the list - The Master Brake Cylinder is going out. The brake pressure slowly fades off when you hold the brake down. I've held it for ~5 mins and the brakes never release, but the pressure in the line drops to almost nothing.

(EDIT2) Just got off the phone with the shop (Its a goodyear shop, they are more knowledgeable with wheels, tires, etc. than anything else) they claim that the hub bearings need to be reworked/replaced apparently... They have "A LOT" of play in them, they are just giving the truck a full once-over inspection I suppose... I replaced the bearings in 2004 last time around, been 7 years, I suppose it's overdue that service... sooo thats #24 if I do that job, with friggin Fords need some specalized tools to take the locking pins off the spindle in the hub... (that I don't have) sigh... Those bearings probably are the answer to the vibration at 40ish mph tho... Bad bearings will make just about anything vibrate like a P-59 mustang... I find it a little strange that they haven't mentioned the Steering Linkage thats bent... what do you guys think? I bring the truck in because the steering is broke, and they start off telling me about the "other broke parts" and not the "broken steering" makes me wonder if they are honest or just trying to tack on more work to the bill.

Thanks,

 

The bearings need to be replaced, at 40$ ea. packed bla bla bla and 2 hours labor... eeeeh OK, its a 4WD system, and it took me ALL DAY to do it myself last time... (ball-park 10 hours) and if I'm worth 20$ / hr (just a rough estimate) thats ~200$ OK for labor, and they are charging 130... (I figure that saves me $) I think this is OK at 220$ cost to fix

the tie rod, and the labor to install, probably OKIE DOKIE on cost at 125$

I don't think I'll replace the rear shocks yet. (I really don't tow enough to justify it)

I just don't have a friggin clue about the fuel leak repair cost... I am going to have to look at it myself and see if its not just the fittings on the transfer pump, and if some neoperene tape at the threaded connections can't fix it.
I REALLY think that they want too much $ for the transfer pump labor.

What do you guys think?

(Edit)
Just got off the phone with the guy, its 2.5 hrs labor (90$/hr for engine repair) equivilant at 4 hrs 65/hr ... He left off the Steering link and the bushings on the estimate, I am having him add those to the estimate... so, I'll update in a few.

(edit2)
GAAAAK! sorry for the omgwtf huge image, I'm fixin it.

(edit3)
Fixdt the 2500x2500 image

 

Screw them on there fuel pump and wheel bearing price. You could get a timken set for both side cheaper then one at that price. Auto zone has the nut remover. My tire rod ends and ball joints came from there as well. I abused the he'll out of the 94 and the parts have held up well. For the price they want for the fuel pump and labor you could build an electric fuel kit or just replace the pump your self which is really easy if you have some mechanical skills. And save your self some labor.

 

Yeah, I gave them the bird on the fuel pump and the rear suspension.... I went ahead and told them to go for it on the bearings, those things took me a long *** time to replace last time around, I ... frankly, don't wanna do it again. If I'm out an extra 75$ for them to do it, so be it.

For that fuel Transfer Pump, its leaking around the fitting/gasket/threaded connection at the front end of the part.

is there an easy means to reseal that piece and stop the leak WITHOUT removing the turbo, baseplate, and the intake housing? They quoted me to replace the part, and frankly, I don't think that the part itself is bad, just the connection to the main fuel injection pump.

 

I'm not sure I follow you on where the pump is leaking but to answer a couple questions, you CAN replace the pump without removing the turbo. All the pumps out there regardless of where you buy them and whose name is on them are reportedly made by the same folks (Carter), so shop around and get one for around $100. Honestly their 2.5 hours of labor to do that pump doesn't sound too terribly outlandish to me.

If it is the pump, usually they go bad internally and leak through a little weep hole in the bottom (where you cannot see them without an inspection mirror, and standing on you head on top the motor with one foot at a 45 degree angle and your tongue hanging out the right side of your mouth). If you are saying it is leaking in the rear of the pump (toward the firewall) where the banjo bolt goes through the steel lines, I would invest the time in getting in there with an 1 1/4" wrench and make for darn sure that the banjo bolt isn't just loose. They have a tendency to loosen themselves up and leak. If it is leaking form one of the rubber lines, just replace them with some SAE 30R9 (diesel rated) rubber fuel line and be done. You'll need less than a foot of each 5/16" and 3/8" hose.

 

Agreed on the bearings. Worth a little bit to not have to do it again for a while.

 

You sure they know what they're talking about? They listed your truck as a 2wd. That will lead to getting the wrong bearings and steering linkage.

Here's a parts diagram for the fuel components. It sounds like you need new banjo washers, part# 9A375

 

yeah, I caught that error on the estimate. I've corrected them, the difference in cost on the parts was an additional 75$

they obviously went through their paperwork too fast somehow.

 

I think it is the #9324 part on that diagram, but it doesn't quite look the same... however the part was threaded... I'll get a second look at it this afternoon and see if I can't snap a picture. Otherwise, it comes back from the shop tomorrow, and I'll get you guys a picture then.

 

9324 is the rubber fuel lines. Easy fix if that's it.

 

OK, the fuel leak (another shop's opinion) is at one of the O-Rings between the High Pressure Pump and the Transfer Pump. He's pretty sure he can fix it for free or (less than a dollar) in parts. He might charge me 20$ for it.. I'm going to have him replace the clutch on the A/C Compressor for 200$ if he can't shim it to work again (temp band-aid fix) ultimately, he'll get the AC working and the fuel fixed for about 250$. He knows the ins and outs of the steering box, and why they break, its all about tolerance on the ball bearings inside the housing. He knows a manufacturer that machines the parts out of Washington for about 500$ a box, and they are well, bullet proof. He says they will last longer than the life of the truck (500,000 miles)!! He mentioned that you "could" use a Ford re-built or a parts yard part, and it costs 200-300 for the part and 150$ to install, but its only going to last 150,000 miles or so, so its still 2 or 3 replaces before the truck is all used up. (650 installed vs 1,350 installed 3 times) Makes sense to me to use the good one. (now I wonder if it comes with a warranty) ... I'll just have to do a little more research before I commit to that.

Two birds down, and I REALLY LIKE this guys shop. Honestly, you guys in Houston, here's a linky Diesel Innovations Online Performance Diesel Products! its not your 5-star "omgwtfbbq! wow" shop, but he does good work from what I saw, and is more than honest. I'm considering having him replace the intake/exhaust/chip and upgrade to electronic fuel injection on the truck... He (verbally) quoted me "About 600$" for the exhaust (turbo to tailpipe) for a full 4" exhaust. 500$ for a 6 stage chip, and I forget what he mentioned the impellar was on the turbo. The fuel was about 575$. He's going to help me out and write up some options when I visit his shop again tomorrow am. Might be a good 2,000$ or 3,000$ well spent! He was claiming 17-19 mpg / hwy (around 70 mph) and upto about 21 if I am REALLY nice to it with a tailwind. That sound reasonable to you guys? not to mention 500+ HP and 500 ft/lbs Torque.

All in all, I'm sure I'll have alot more to jabber about tomorrow...

How was you guys's Labor Day? Mine was fun, didn't have to do anything, all day long. Lots of TV and potato chips!! it was greeeeeeeaaaaat!