Ignition Switch
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Ignition Switch
I just purchased a 1984 Ford F150, 5.0 2barrel.
The truck has a hard time cranking, so I paid to have the carburator rebuilt. Its running much better but still hard to crank. Its like when you let off of the ignition key, the truck acts like it wants to crank. The guy at the carburetor shop said that it sounded like a problematic ignition switch. Does anyone have any ideas? It runs fine, but just hard to get it started.
Thanks,
Kris
The truck has a hard time cranking, so I paid to have the carburator rebuilt. Its running much better but still hard to crank. Its like when you let off of the ignition key, the truck acts like it wants to crank. The guy at the carburetor shop said that it sounded like a problematic ignition switch. Does anyone have any ideas? It runs fine, but just hard to get it started.
Thanks,
Kris
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Up state NY
Ignition Switch
I had the same problem with my truck. sometimes it would not start when the key was in the start position but when i turned it back to run it was spinning just enough that when the ingintion got power it would start, but in cold weather it would do nothing but turn over.sounds like a bad ingintion switch.it's on the top of the colum and it's only like 12 bucks from napa.
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Ignition Switch
I replaced the ignition switch but its still not working right. I cant think of anything else that would cause these symptoms. When the engine has sat overnight it cranks good. After it runs a few minutes and I shut off the engine, its hard to start, and the more i do it the harder it gets to start. Its like something electrical is overheating. When i release the ignition key it acts like it wants to crank but then stops because by then the key is in the off position. Does anyone have any ideas? Could a bad coil cause this, or module? It cranks fine the first few times but gets progressively worse. The timing is right, and the carburetor has been rebuilt.
Any help is appreciated
Thanks
Kris
Any help is appreciated
Thanks
Kris
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From: Virginia
Ignition Switch
Do you have an exhaust leak near the starter making it overheat?
Does it turn over slowly at a fairly constant speed? I would try the starter.
Or does it start to turn over fast and then like hit a hard spot, and then turns over and hits a hard spot again. If it does this, pump the gas a couple of times to flood the engine, and then crank it. If it turns over faster when it's flooded, I suspect the timing, though you said you checked it. You might want to make a note of where the timing is now, and then retard it a little and see if the problem goes away. Harmonic balancers have been known to slip.
Does it turn over slowly at a fairly constant speed? I would try the starter.
Or does it start to turn over fast and then like hit a hard spot, and then turns over and hits a hard spot again. If it does this, pump the gas a couple of times to flood the engine, and then crank it. If it turns over faster when it's flooded, I suspect the timing, though you said you checked it. You might want to make a note of where the timing is now, and then retard it a little and see if the problem goes away. Harmonic balancers have been known to slip.
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Ignition Switch
No, it turns over fast, of course until the battery goes dead. I am sure its not the timing because I know what you are referring to as far as hitting a "dead spot". A few weeks ago the starter solenoid stuck open, and when I shut the key off it was still starting. It practically melted the negative battery cable. I replaced the solenoid, and the cable but I wonder if it fried the ignition coil or module in the process. They are both cheap parts. According to searching this forum people have recommend either the coil or the module, which one should I try first? When you release the ignition key it acts like it wants to start but rarely does?
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From: Virginia
Ignition Switch
Ok. I got off on the wrong track. I would buy a test light or a multimeter, and put one lead on the + of the coil, and one lead to ground. When you turn the key on, you should have voltage on the + of the coil. When you are cranking, you should have voltage on the coil too.
Do you have a vacuum line going to the dist? If so you have a duraspark II system and the only thing besides the coil is the ignition box on the inner fender.
If you don't have vacuum line going to the dist, then you must have a computerized system. You still have a fenderwell ignition box, but you also have computer in the mix as well. Good luck on that one.
Do you have a vacuum line going to the dist? If so you have a duraspark II system and the only thing besides the coil is the ignition box on the inner fender.
If you don't have vacuum line going to the dist, then you must have a computerized system. You still have a fenderwell ignition box, but you also have computer in the mix as well. Good luck on that one.
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Ignition Switch
Thanks Franklin, I do have a vacuum line on the distributor. I figure the only thing it could be is one of those two things. I think when I get off today I am going to take the ignition module to advanced auto to be tested. If they say its good, then I will start with the ignition coil, if they say is bad, then i will start with the module. If I end up replacing both of those and it still doesn't work, I might go crazy.
I will keep you posted on what happens.
Thanks for your help.
I will keep you posted on what happens.
Thanks for your help.
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From: Panama City United States
Ignition Switch
Hey I had a problem with my 84 f-150 302 that when I turned the key to start it but the starter kept on turning with the engine until I turned the engine off completely. Turned out to be the ignition switch. But not the one that the key fits in. Down the column from the keyed switch runs a rod to another switch. You have to drop the column down to get to it. What was going on was that switch is spring loaded that kicks the key back when you turn it loose which makes the starter disengage. Everything works fine after replacing the switch. Maybe this will help.
JJH
Hey Franklin 2 still adjusting that choke a little every morning getting close.
JJH
Hey Franklin 2 still adjusting that choke a little every morning getting close.
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Ignition Switch
Fords ain't so bad after all!!!
Well, I took out the ignition module tonight and took it up to advanced auto parts. I explained to the guy that it cranks when cold, but then it doesn't after it warms up or you shut it off. He took one look at my ignition module and said that it was bad.
After receiving his assurance I bought a new module, installed it, then said a quick prayer before turning ol' red over......
Man I tell you what, I have never heard anything so sweet in all my life. My truck fires right up like a dream everytime now. Turns out it WAS the MODULE. I didn't feel too bad about replacing the switch because it was worn out anyways.
If anyone has a truck with the same problem as mentioned in the above posts, definitely check out the module. It was only 15 bucks and took 5 minutes to replace.
This is the best automotive forum I have ever seen. The abundance of information here is priceless. Thanks to everyone for their help.
Rock on!!!
Well, I took out the ignition module tonight and took it up to advanced auto parts. I explained to the guy that it cranks when cold, but then it doesn't after it warms up or you shut it off. He took one look at my ignition module and said that it was bad.
After receiving his assurance I bought a new module, installed it, then said a quick prayer before turning ol' red over......
Man I tell you what, I have never heard anything so sweet in all my life. My truck fires right up like a dream everytime now. Turns out it WAS the MODULE. I didn't feel too bad about replacing the switch because it was worn out anyways.
If anyone has a truck with the same problem as mentioned in the above posts, definitely check out the module. It was only 15 bucks and took 5 minutes to replace.
This is the best automotive forum I have ever seen. The abundance of information here is priceless. Thanks to everyone for their help.
Rock on!!!
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