stage 2 would probably be fun at first,but im sure it would get old real fast in a DD.
use the stage 1 springs.you'll feel the shifts,buts it's not going to clean out the U-joints and jerk you back into the seat every shift.

the shift kit doesn't control when it shifts.the computer handles that.
what the shift kit does is makes its shift quicker,without the factory "driver comfort" slow engagement slush.which is actually just letting the clutch packs slowly press together and slip until they fully compresses.this causes them to ware out sooner than if they just would press together sooner and be done.it also drastically reduces heat when you alter the vale body to have them lockup sooner too.
everything about shift kits are good really.just that going with too much or little springs (whichever way it works.can't remember now) is hard on U-joints cus the shift can be so quick it bangs into gear.good for race tracks,but not what ya want in a DD.if you do it,you'll likely get sick and tired of it eventually and find yourself dropping the pan and valve body again to swap in the more practical street springs.

the inline resister is tricking the computers reading of the electronic shift control solenoid value and thereby allows it to send higher pressure through the valve body.this will make the shifts feel more snappy even at low rpm shifts.this is likely a good idea too,cus im sure the engineers at ford set the stock value for "driver comfort" levels too.

 

ok well i got a couple vids... i had my iphone on the dash against the window for the outside vids.

not very good quality but it kinda shows the shift

soft acceleration:
E4od b&m shift kit normal acceleration - YouTube

E40d b&m shift kit - YouTube

hard acceleration:

E4od b&m shift kit full throttle - YouTube

E40d b&m shift kit stage 1 hard acceleration - YouTube

 

Is their any downfalls to the eletric one? Anything to worry about in the long run?

 

E4OD Adjustable Pressure Riser "Electric shift kit" - FSB Forums

 

The stage 2 doesnt seem to bad to me but then again its only a video and im a 17 yr old boy. It may get old after awhile though. I can also hear my mom complainin about it the first time she has to drive my truck anywhere. Especially in the rain or snow

 

I hate wiring.. Ill pay $30 to have something i can plug in and switch between lol

 

Holy crap that 1/2 shift is wayy to rough!

Reminds me on when mine was in limp mode running full line pressure. It was fun for a min though... Chirping 2nd with light throttle. Burning the tires through 2nd and chirping 3rd at WOT.


Here is the only video I know of of the Punisher valvebody from a guy on NLOC.
1993 Lightning with Punisher Valve Body - YouTube


Im planning on some transmission work soon and ill be making some videos with the Punisher valvebody.


Xc4jokestomper : Id stay away from the electric ones.

 

The videos are with the stage 1 springs installed. I dropped the pan and changed it from stage 2-1 yesterday.

On another note I you have to drop the Pam for any reason I found a good way to drinking the pan prior to making a big mess while trying to remove it full...
A$15 drill pump and some plastic line. Feed it down the dipstick tube and voila suck all the fluid out and drop the pan mess free... Suck all out you can, start the truck cycle through the shifter range shut it off and suck te rest of the fluid out. Keep in mind this just drains the pan there is still oil ontop of the valve bodies.

 

How can I tell if my transmission is in limp mode? Cause changing springs and removing/replacing the jumper didn't seem to make a difference and it seems way harder then the punisher valve body

 

....Pull the codes and see , but the shift kit is going what it was meant to do , the holes that you drilled were for the stage 2 kit , you may need to get a new plate and drill it to the stage 1 , it also soulds like theres something loose in your drive train.....

 

It has new ujoints and I changed the rear diff fluid at the same time. I did have to use a torch to heat up the rearend to get the plug out tho... Could that have messed the vss sensor? My speedometer is fine so I'm thinking the vss is still ok...

The shift kit don't specify different holes in the plate for the stage 1 or stage 2 just the different springs.

The OD still works I hit the button yesterday and it jumped 500rpm.

In the valve body there was a broken spring that I replaced which the ones in the shift kit.
Could there be something in the accumulator body?

I'm thinking I should have noticed a dofference between the stage 1 and stage 2 springs.... Or the resistor being in/out. It all feels the same to me

I didn't notice the OD light flashing

 

I don't know , i used the stage 2 kit in a 4R70W , so its different with the springs and holes drilled.....