I'm getting ready to fire up the newly rebuilt engine. Not really new, it's been sitting for about 6 yrs since initial build up. My question is this: what type of procedure do experieced engine builders use to fire up a new engine? Since the oil has been in the pan for all this time, i'm going to drain and pour in new oil along with the ZDDP additive. Are there any issues / tricks to getting the radiator / water jacket full and all the air out so there are no hot spots when first fired up? What about fuel? Just keep cranking the engine until the mech. fuel pump fills up the carb bowl and it can start suckin fuel? Also, the transmission has been rebuild and the torque converter is "empty". I've initially poured in 4 qts of Mercon / Dextron fluid. When do you top off the fluid for the tranny - after the engine has run for awhile and up to operating temp? I'm kinda nervous in strarting this up for the first time - I envision lots of problems (thermostat sticking, no fuel, timing off, radiator / water jacket air locking , etc. seems like my luck lately lol!)
Hope to hear what you all suggest.

 

Where has it been sitting for 6 years with oil in a pan? If inside, I'ld leave that oil in. Oil don't "just go stale", it should last as long sitting in an oil pan of a closed up engine as it does in a can.

I would at least disable the ignition and pull the plugs, and spin her over some with the starter avoiding long spells, just like 5 secs at a time. Do not just pull plugs and leave wires hanging, either ground the spark plug end odf the wires or better yet, unplug the ignition module itself. No plugs will let her spin faster and watch the mechanical oil gage.

I'ld simply start with a full radiator with the proper thermostat in place for a 351M/400 if that's what it is and cap off and keep an eye on it as she warms. No different than when you change coolant every other year or three ... or 5 as the case may be.

Reasonably fresh fuel in the tank, watch the carb top for signs of a stuck float though if setting a long time. By the time you spin the motor over without plugs priming the oil puimp the carb float bowl will be full .... but there won't be any intake vacuum with plugs out. Just watch the top of the carb vent tube. If gas comes out, gonna have to "unstick" a float or inlet needle.

If my C-6 and it's new and dry, I'm putting at least 8 qts in to start ... before I even prime my engine's oil system with the no plugs routine above ... unless it causes it to come out the dip stick tube which I doubt (total capacity for my C-6 in a '77 F-150 4X4 with 351m/400 is 27 pints or 13.5 quarts). That'll help raise levels in the trans and make sure nothing runs drier than necessary.

Then after the priming session, check engine oil level, look for oil filter gasket leak, check and add some trans fluid so it shows on the stick again.

Then reinstall plugs, hook up wires and ignition module and if gas ain't sprayed out the carb vents yet .... start her up with a fast idle and as she run and warms up, while watching temp and radiator level and oil pressure and belts and carb vents and watching for leaks and checking oil filter gasket .... I'ld be checking and adding more trans fluid as needed running her through the gears after 10 quarts.

I might also have a big floor fan in front of the truck to blow heat away from me in these times.

But that's "me".

 

Bookmarking this one for "someday" when I need it!

 

Depends on what "rebuilt" means.

I rebuilt my 400 about 3 years ago, had the block machined, cam polished, rods resized, TMI pistons, Clevite bearings, Cloyes timing set, heads rebuilt & ported, new cam & lifters, etc. etc. etc.

Machine work was performed by a guy who runs a shop he calls Blue Oval Performance, this guy knows Ford engines.

A friend who used to build engines for a living in a prior life helped me, in fact he did most of the intricate assembly while I just watched and learned.

Anyhow....

At assembly time, I used a special red assembly paste on the cam & lifter components, it has a property that helps with breaking in of the flat-tappet cam.

Apparently flat-tappet cams have their own break-in procedures, you might google that.

As I recall, I used standard assembly lube on the rest of the parts.

For initial fire-up, the machinist had me use this fairly expensive racing oil; I don't remember the brand name but it can be gotten at speed shops, the oil is blue in color and I guess has some properties that are desirable in this break-in procedure.

Ran the engine for I think 30-45 or so minutes, ensuring the temperature and oil pressure were OK (using known-accurate gauges, NOT the factory things) and there weren't any problems.

During this time, varied the RPMs - I think it was something like 10 minutes at 1500, another 10 at 3,000, another 10 at 2500, another 10 at a different speed, I don't remember the specifics but I'll bet you can google it and find out.

Drained the oil and collected the metal shavings (had a magnetic oil plug that caught those) and replaced with 10W40 and a new filter.

Finally, put about 1,000 miles on it via highway trips where I again varied the RPMs - varied & held the speeds at different levels between 50 & 75 MPH (T18 tranny & 4.10 gears allows me to rap it out on the highway).

Anyway, you should google the procedures for flat-tappet cam break-in (maybe the 335 forum here can help in addition to guys here) and use a zinc additive with your oil changes.

 

I can tell you what not to have happen. When I fired up my 300 I6, after I realized my fuel pump was no good, and I got another from Napa, I was all ready for the big start up. At this point your all eyes and ears watching and listening for ANYTHING!

As this is taking off and things are coming up to temperature, I start to smell something burning!!! I looks for smoke, feel things are not hot, and all of a sudden I hear a loud explosion. I shut it down, everything looks sounds, feels normal, when I notice the little old lady next door decided it was time to burn a bag full of paper at the back side of my driveway in a burn barrel (up wind).

I walk over, and look in and see an aerosol can on the bottom with the side blown open. This paper burning happens about every two or three weeks, and of course she had to burn right at this crucial time! The explosion was so loud, you coldn't tell where it came from.

My point is you will be focused on your engine, and try to control your enviroment around you at this crucial time, it will make it that less hairy!!

 

Good info there. I would only change one thing. I keep old distributors and make a oil pump priming tool out of them. You can do the same thing with a tool from parts store, or proper size socket on an extention(atached securely. This will pump oil thru the whole system and valve train. Also mixes up your additive in oil. Use a half inch drill in counter clockwise rotation. You will also be able to see your oil pressure come up as everything gets full. Yes, follow procedure for braking in flat tappet cams. As long as it's running, save your tuning till cam is broke in. The first 20 minutes are critical.

 

Thanks.

At first I included that as an "OR" deal in the start, but decided that complicated the issue maybe too much for some. Not sure if the distributor was in the motor and if OP would be able to get it back right? No shame there ....

In review, I should maybe add that I would stop adding trans fluid when it's still a quart low after I know I've put in most of it and save the last quart or half quart for after I can check it HOT.

 

You never know what to include or not. You don't want to insult someones intelligence or miss a key bit of info that could cause them some real problems. Not enough fluid in tranny is one of those. Some don't even know to put fluid in converter before installing. A fresh build, I wouldn't worry near as much about priming as one that has sat that long. It's just standard practice for me anymore. I even do it on engines that have just set for a long time and not run. Stabbing a distributor can be scary for someone not used to doing it.

 

I know .... sounds like he's sure trans is dry too. Putting 8 or 10 quarts in there before anything, by the time he's turned the engine over some with no plugs and disabled ign. hopefully much of the TC will be wet inside.

 

Wow guys thanks for all the responses!! I have been thinking about this for a Loooonnng time and get nervous thinking about all the bad things that can happen. The engine has been sitting inside all the time, but the last couple years was in a building that seemed to be on the "damp" side all the time. It has conventional motor oil in it now - nothing expensive. I think I'll still put in fresh oil along with the ZDDP.
The TC was installed dry (by accident - I wanted to put fluid in it before I bolted the tranny to the engine but was too excited to get things done you know lol). Doesn't sound like anything will be hurt by putting in 4-8 qts of fluid and hopefully the TC fills itself during the cranking / priming session.
Carb is brand new Edelbrock - nothing should be stuck in it yet I would hope. I haven't done any adjustments to the carb - just bolted it on. Is that the correct way to install the Edelbrocks?
Thanks for the good insightful information!

 

Tees77 - that's funny (we at least reading it) - was not a laughing matter at the time I'm sure. No close neighbors here so I should be safe lol. I'm sure there will be a hint of Hot something or another, so I"m sure I'll be stiffin around pretty good! lol

 

It's a start! ... your welcome. Let us know how it goes.