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03 EB bad injector?

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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 09:16 PM
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03 EB bad injector?

I have an 03 EB with a 4.6. My wife was driving home and called me because she said it was running really bad and it smelled like gas. It ended up dying on her so I went to investigate. When I got there I cranked it and it started but acted hesitant. I drove it home and heres what I have:

Runs really bad at idle but runs better at higher rpm
white smoke coming from exhaust due to unburnt fuel
pulled codes 206 (cylinder 6 injector circuit open), 306 (cylinder 6 misfire),
and one for oxy sensor rich

Heres what I've tried:

Ran ohms resistance test on #6 injector, 17 (normal range 13.5-19)
Tried noid light, with KOEO, the light stays on. Put noid light on other injectors and they dont light up when key is on.
Noid light remains on even when cranking on #6 unlike others that flash when cranking or running.

At first I thought the injector was bad but after trying the noid light, it seems for some reason something is making the #6 injector stay open. What would cause this?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 99f250craig
Tried noid light, with KOEO, the light stays on. Put noid light on other injectors and they dont light up when key is on.
Noid light remains on even when cranking on #6 unlike others that flash when cranking or running.

At first I thought the injector was bad but after trying the noid light, it seems for some reason something is making the #6 injector stay open. What would cause this?
The Red wire feeds battery voltage to each injector. The "other" wire goes to the PCM. The PCM grounds that wire when it wants to open the injector and releases the ground when its time to close the injector.

My SWAG is that the Green w/orange stripe wire of injector #6 has found its own way to ground. (In other words, when the PCM releases its ground for injector #6, the Green w/Orange stripe wire provides its own ground and keeps the injector (and NOID light) on.

Unplug the injector #6 from the vehicle wiring harness and unplug the 104-pin connector from the PCM. That should isolate the green w/orange stripe wire. Then put your ohm meter on the green w/orange stripe wire and the other meter lead to a good ground. If the meter shows continuity, that green w/orange stripe wire has found a path to ground.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 05:56 PM
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Doesn't seem to have a break anywhere. Found green w/Orange stripe wire on pcm side, not getting continuity through it and engine frame. Even checked pcm side with injector side, no resistantance. Any other ideas???
 
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 08:40 PM
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You could try swapping injector #6 with #5 and see if the problem moves to #5. If it does, the injector may be shorted internally.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 99f250craig
Any other ideas???
1. It's possible you got ahold of the wrong wire. It should be the 6th one in on the bottom row of the PCM connector.

2. Do you have an aftermarket remote starter where the installer might've tied into the #6 injector circuit for a tach pulse?

A second access point for the injector wiring is under that metal plate below the starter relay on the passenger side of the firewall. There you will find two large, basically square, connectors. Also, it might be a light green wire with an orange tracer instead of a darker green with orange.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by alloro
1. It's possible you got ahold of the wrong wire. It should be the 6th one in on the bottom row of the PCM connector.

2. Do you have an aftermarket remote starter where the installer might've tied into the #6 injector circuit for a tach pulse?

A second access point for the injector wiring is under that metal plate below the starter relay on the passenger side of the firewall. There you will find two large, basically square, connectors. Also, it might be a light green wire with an orange tracer instead of a darker green with orange.
I have big flat square aluminum looking box against the passenger side firewall that has 3 fairly big pin plugs in it. I assume that is the ECM or PCM right? I traced the drivers side harness to the middle plug and unplugged it. I put one lead on the injector plug that has the green wire w/orange stripe. Took the other lead and tried each pin on the plug until I found the pin that had 0 ohms resistance. I pulled the back cover off the big plug to confirm that it was the same color. The pin I found to be it was the top row third from the passenger side. I then removed the test lead from the injector plug and put it many spots of bare metal on the engine to see if I got continuity. I didnt get any readings. So I assume there are no breaks in the wire and its not going to ground.

No aftermarket remote start.

pdqford: I thought the noid light staying on eliminated the injector being bad?
 
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 99f250craig
pdqford: I thought the noid light staying on eliminated the injector being bad?
Well, yeah, your right. The injector would be completly out of the circuit.

Ask alloro if the #6 injector driver in the PCM could be bad..........I don't know how to prove that out.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 99f250craig
I thought the noid light staying on eliminated the injector being bad?
Negative. The injector can be internally shorting the pulsed side to ground. Did you try testing for ohms from each of the two injector pins to ground, with the 2-wire connector disconnected.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by alloro
Negative. The injector can be internally shorting the pulsed side to ground. Did you try testing for ohms from each of the two injector pins to ground, with the 2-wire connector disconnected.

Wish I would read this earlier. Turned it over to the dealership. Seems to be over my head. I'm used to working on Ford OBD I. Will post when dealer calls tomorrow. Thanks guys.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2011 | 10:24 PM
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Bad pcm. I appreciate the help guys. Thanks.
 
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