360 hard to start when hot
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360 hard to start when hot
Haven't been driving the F100 enough... but now that it is summer time, I found that after driving the truck, and shutting it off, it is very hard to restart.
The engine does not run hot, and the starter cranks the engine over very well. It usually takes cranking for a long time, while holding the gas pedal to the floor, in order to start back up.
When the engine is cold, it starts right up.
Any advice?
The engine does not run hot, and the starter cranks the engine over very well. It usually takes cranking for a long time, while holding the gas pedal to the floor, in order to start back up.
When the engine is cold, it starts right up.
Any advice?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Did you by chance swap the intake for an alum one? They are known to boil the gas out, as you described and require a 1in phenolic spacer between the carb & intake. The spacer make them run better too.
John
John
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Yes the intake and exhaust manifolds are all original cast iron. And it does seam like it would be more carburetor related.
The one inch spacer insulator sounds like it would do the trick.
It makes me wonder why this truck would boil the gas out of the carburetor? The engine does not run hot.
The one inch spacer insulator sounds like it would do the trick.
It makes me wonder why this truck would boil the gas out of the carburetor? The engine does not run hot.
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From: Eagle Rock, CA
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Sounds like a "Heat Soak" problem. Ford did make a 1-inch metal spacer for their 2-Bbl carbs.There might also be some thick (1/4") aftermarket gasket type spacers available too. If you have the heated metal spacer with the heater hoses connected to it just bypass the spacer during the summer by running the hose directly to the heater.
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Went to the local NAPA to order the insulating spacer plate, and they told me the it sounds like the timing is too far advanced. I backed it off about 6 degrees. It starts back up a little easier when hot, but it runs bad, chuggin up hill, and spittin out the carb.
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If it ran good otherwise, put the timing back where it was and check your batt cables and grounds...old, corroded cables will cause hard hot starting due to heat and resistance. If you don't have the stock carb spacer plumbed to the heater hoses, use a phenolic spacer or make yourself one out of hardwood...that'll work, too. Carb heat soak can show up when it gets real hot...as in the weather.
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Galesville Wisconsin
"It usually takes cranking for a long time, while holding the gas pedal to the floor, in order to start back up.
When the engine is cold, it starts right up."
Im a little confused as to what you are saying here.... asuming your holding the pedal to the floor, does that mean it acts flooded? if thats the case, and you had an electric choke, the choke could close to fast after shutoff and make it run really rich and hard to start...(damn those electrick chokes) but if you have to pump it, i would stick to the gas boiling theore... if your timing is advanced too far it will turnover and then stop randomly for a second due to pre-ignition, but you usually only have to back the timing off a couple degrees if thats the case...
When the engine is cold, it starts right up."
Im a little confused as to what you are saying here.... asuming your holding the pedal to the floor, does that mean it acts flooded? if thats the case, and you had an electric choke, the choke could close to fast after shutoff and make it run really rich and hard to start...(damn those electrick chokes) but if you have to pump it, i would stick to the gas boiling theore... if your timing is advanced too far it will turnover and then stop randomly for a second due to pre-ignition, but you usually only have to back the timing off a couple degrees if thats the case...