Well there you go ladies and gentlemen. Another exception.

 

You're right. I should have worded that statement better. Dealer parts countermen are usually excellent. I know they're frustrated when they have to deal with weekend warriors instead of professional mechanics that know what they're talking about. If you can find an old fart behind a NAPA counter then they're usually really good too. Other than that I don't have any confidence in most people at Autozone or O'reillys etc.
I beg your pardon sir.

 

Careful now Jeff, I might get truly offended and need a safe place with pizza and beer to recoup from the hurt that I felt from your words

It's all good. I know your pain when going to get parts and hoping the person behind the counter has a clue.
I also know the pain of the counter guy when a person comes in wanting something, not sure what or for what, but they know they want it and it's your fault they don't have it yet.

 

One thing has not changed in the 60 yrs I've been buying auto parts as a person should still take in the old faulty part to match it up to the new one they have boxed up.
Orich

 

That is good advice to bring in the old part to match it up with the new one.

and perhaps regardless of whos advice you're listening to whether they be a well-regarded professional or someone who has no idea what they're talking about it may not be a bad idea to carefully consider all advice. for in the end whether the advice is good bad or otherwise we all have to live with all of the results of all of the decisions we make. including the results were not thinking about right now. Regardless of who the advice came from or whether or not we took the advice

 

I didn't just get too philosophical and deep in the middle of a forum dedicated to carburetor repair did I

 

No offense taken MPH. I was just stating facts. I've got pretty thick skin Buddy.

Even though you are kidding, next time you're in town I'll buy you that pizza and beer Greg.g Speaking of bringing a sample with you, Back 79/83 ish when I was working the retail parts counter at Earnhardt Ford, I used to take care of 2 to 3 people at once. If they all brought a sample. I'd take one look at their sample and knew what it was. So I'd go back in the shelves and pull all 3 parts at the same time. I used to get the "How'd you do that?" question often.

Sorry for the .

 

HOT START Solved:I drive a 1968 Ford F100
and this is what I did no more problems.
1.Changed COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
2.Changed thermostat from 180% to 195%
3. Made heat shield for starter out of aluminum pie pan
I can get out after long drives and jump right back in, no more embarrassing stall- out or hot starts.
"FINALLY"

 

where did you end up putting the pie pan

 

sorry I just realized you already said that you made it for the starter

 

however I am still a little bit confused. Did I understand your message right. It looks like you put in a hotter thermostat. And I'm not sure why you would have made a heat shield for the starter assuming your starter was cranking the engine well.

 

Pie Pan sounds a little easier than the Aluminum roof flashing that I am using. My Headers nearly touch my starter and even though my starter hasn't had any problems the hot wire down to it needed to be wrapped. I will try the Pie Pan or maybe the turkey pan around the headers. I also am dealing with the hot start issue, recently I installed the Felpro gasket ES-70582. I will not be able to tell anything about the hot start until I get the truck running since it has been sitting 10 years ...due to that hot start issue that I could not or did not at the time find a solution.

I changed the Intake to an Edelbrock aluminum performer intake from the cast iron one which never had a problem starting however, I think I missed putting in the thicker gasket (above) when I put the carb on the Alum intake. Anyway I plan to remove the heater plate which I understand is for cold weather applications and insert a 1" Aluminum spacer off of a Mustang which I found online for $35.00 that also has the vacuum pipe. Getting rid of the hot water piping seems like it would remove the 180 degree water from under the carb. I am going to see how the ES-70582 does first though.

Also seen on another thread how a guy installed an electric fuel pump which he claimed stopped vapor lock and hot starting problem.

I am supposing that vapor Lock is different than Heat soaked. One is gas boiling in the fuel line and the other is gas boiling in the carb?

Someone mentioned Gas boiling in the carb and then somehow flooding a hot engine??? How can this happen if everything is so hot to boil the gas away even from inside the intake??

Had also someone say that a gasket or seal in the carb can go bad and leak gas into the intake causing flooding which creates hot start problems.

 

to answer your question about how the carburetor can boil over flooding the intake.

I'm guessing you're confused thinking that if the intake is hot enough to boil a carburetor why wouldn't the intake be hot enough to boil away the gasoline that falls into the intake ( if that is your question) then you wouldn't be a hundred percent wrong if you wait a very long time like about an hour or more the vehicle goes back to starting like normal as if the fuel which had boiled over the carburetor into the intake had time to then evaporate out of the intake no longer causing a flooding situation. But there is a time frame between the point where you shut it off after it gets hot and the hour or more when the fuel evaporate that the intake is flooded with fuel.

I literally watched this happen on my dad's truck 2 or 3 times where we took the air horn off of the carburetor shut it off waited a few minutes and watched it boil

 

I setup a mirror into air horn on my in-laws 70 with 360 motor an just after 17 minutes was we waited heard a whooshing noise we looked
an say the gas rolling out of the carb going down into the intake.

So, I just removed the heater hose from the carb plate an by pass it an no more heat soaking problems.

Orich.

 

Thanks John, I think this is exactly what has caused my Heat Soak problem, because when I had the cast iron intake had no Heat Soak, But after the swap out with the Edelbrock Performer Aluminum intake I get Heat Soak and hot starting issues.

Since I already purchased the 1/4 inch gasket Jeff recommended and installed it I am going to try it first and see what happens.