Simple enough to check remove plug wire ground to block, Spark will be Orange color spark not white/bluest.

My in laws had the same troubles with their 360 1970. So removed the air cleaner after running the motor up to the normal operating temp. then stopped the motor and placed a small mirror cocked so I could see down the throat of the carb. 17 minutes later we hear a fuel boiling out raw gas.

Removed and by passed the hot coolant carb base hose and put in a 180 thermostat did the trick. But big intake manifold gets so hot with the exh heat crossing right under it.

Plus low octane gas does burn hotter then the higher octane gas.

Not like the ol days of leaded gas as this problem boil over was not happening back then.
Orich

 

Greg has a point on the condenser. In the past couple years there's been Tons of guys with a bad new, used, or new in a rebuilt Dizzy condenser. Won't cost much to try it. Ford single point with a V8 Dizzys take Ford Motorcraft part number C9AZ12300A. Still available from your local Ford Dealer.

 

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me and dad fixed this problem today without the spacer everyone else talks about on his 71 ford f100 the carburetor is a 2100 motorcraft. 360 engine. the problem we were having was a very hard start after it got hot and left it for a few minutes. turns out the reason was the fuel in the carburetor bowl was boiling over into the venturi, flooding it with a lot of fuel. making the start hard until the engine ate through the excess fuel. ill now tell you how we came to the conclusion we did and how we fixed it. after reading on this forum for a while and seeing people talk about boiling fuel we checked for that by getting it hot then looking into the air horn on the carburetor and listening and watching for the boiling. which it did after a few minutes. (this time may vary depending on the specifics of your vehicle). anyway we heard it bubbling then watched it purge through the venturi into the carb. that told me it was the boiling of fuel that was the problem. then using a infrared thermometer we got it hot and checked the temperatures of different parts around the carburetor. we found that the coolant hoses going up to the... (I don't know what this thing is actually called but we call it the heat sink its in between the carb and the intake) got the hottest at about 180 degrees f. I found that gasoline boils at about 180 degrees f and everything else around it was cooler than that. we decided we didn't want to do anything too evasive like the spacer others talked about. so we figured we would place a valve on the incoming coolant line going up to the "heatsink" figuring if we cut the hottest thing next to the carburetor we may just fix it. so we did and it worked. now everything around the aria including the bowl and the carburetor body are much cooler now and no boiling or any sound or mist, or fuel coming from the venturi. now it doesent matter how long you wait after shutting it off it starts just how it should. we went with a valve so it could be easily reopened in the winter. we placed the valve on the hotter side of the "heatsink" to lessen how much heat radiation could travel up to the "heatsink"

ps im not sure how this forum handles pictures so my next post will be a picture of the finished job showing where we put the valve.

 

this is the pictue i promiced
fdafdafadsfadf

 

Thanks for the follow up on your hot start issues..
"Happy motoring"
Orich

 

Many including myself have completely removed the carb heater plumbing you installed the valve in. Didn't solve the issue for me in the summer months, but I live in the desert.

Glad it worked for you. thanks for posting feedback for others.

 

Maybe the spacer is what is best in some situations. But for those who like me and dad who didn't want to change things too much the next thing we were going to try if the valve didn't work was a cooler thermostat the way I see it if we can keep the temperature below 180 then the boiling problem would go away but I'm honestly not sure if that would work that is just a theory

 

now I'm curious to know did you remove the carb heater ( the thing I keep calling the heatsink), placing the carburetor more directly on top of the intake manifold or did you leave the carb heater in place and just not allow the water to run through it in my case by placing the valve ( and never opening the valve so that way there was probably large pockets of air left in the carb heater) I believe the carb heater in that situation was acting a lot more like the spacer that people talk about because there was no hot water running through it

 

I just removed the hoses and left the heater/heatshink/spacer thing in place. Plugged the manifold 2nd port and removed 't' in hose. Also have a thick insulating gasket under carb, didn't seem to do much either. I only have issues when it is hot outside in the sun, 100+.

 

Lesson here: never take advice from a parts counterman, there's a reason they're behind the counter and not under the hood.

 

Thanks for sharing the valve idea. That info may help someone else too. I rep'ed you for it.

 

I did all this , 180 Tstat, phenolic spacer, blocked off the heat riser from the exhaust manifold to the intake snout on the air filter assembly (undo this in winter), and also used the Felpro intake gasket that blocks the exhaust crossover through the intake manifold. Did the trick for me with Performer intake and Holly 4bbl. But I live in the desert and don't have to deal with the cold temps, only hot ones is summer. Did this years ago but I think I saved the intake gasket box so I wouldn't have to do all the searching again to find the right part number for the gasket that blocks off the exhaust crossover.
I guess taking lead out of gas was a good thing, maybe being exposed to the stuff for so long is why I can't remember my name sometimes now (haha).

 

I lived out in no mans land for 12yrs and the heat as high as 126* & as low as 16* I still needed a manual choke.
That Clean air will cause those brain farts when you do any deep breathing an forget stuff.
I know much of the polluted air from the big city's can even drifts out to the low desert area.
Orich

 

Speaking of the big box parts stores I agree with you. But generally speaking I have to add in there are exceptions. I know this since I am an exception to that rule.

 

Now Jeff, I take offense to that. I have people come to my big box store on referral just to talk to me. Judge by the person not the position. when you find a good parts guy/gal stick with them.