I have an all stock 360 also and this sounds familiar..so the spacer would help?

 

ha, i guess ill just take ur word for it. im just confused

 

Bypassing the hot water spacer gives more time before the gas starts boiling. Adding the 1/4" thick felpro gasket ($5.oo) helps more. Another thick gasket on the other side of the hot water plate obviously would be even better. And the 1" phenolic spacer from Summit ($60.oo) will the best fix.

 

ok so thats an FE problem? is is the engine or carb? i think im having this problem with mine but its a 302 out of a 71 e100. think the guy kept the FE 2bbl carb though. cant tell.

 

It is not limited to the FE, it's the lack of insulation between the hot intake and carb.

Timing & other issues can cause the symptoms also.



John

 

well it has the spacer on it and the carb was just rebuilt but i do think it may be out of time by just a tad. the other thing we think is the wiring...its a mess.

 

John: I am having the also having the Hot Start problem !!! I have the water jacket type spacer under the carb... do you think if I put a shut off valve on the water line just before the 2100 carb and shut it off in the spring/summer/fall, it would help?? Thanks Bob

 

All very interesting. I recently purchased a 71 F250 and mine is doing the exact same thing. I assumed I had a gas leaking into the intake issue from either a float or needle/seat so I am putting in a carb kit saturday. I might be disapointed Def need to look at my spacer situation as that sounds like the cure! I live in TX and got the truck several months ago so I have never had an oppurtunity to operate when it wasnt hot outside/

 

I too think it is heat soak. While a metal spacer would be nice for flow it moves the carb up and away from the tranny kick down rod if you have an automatic trans. I suggest a good quality 3/8" to 1/4" carb gasket. A metal spacer will transmit heat where this THICK gasket will help block it. Ford's part number was E5HZ9C477A they used universally. You can get a Felpro one. Say, use 1980 F150 351w for an application.

 

Awesome tip. Thanks!

 

This system was used for faster warm ups. But apparently they cause harder starting when hot radiator water is running under the carb constantly. Has anyone just removed the system entirely, and just add thicker spacers? Cold starting never seem to be an issue for FE's.

 

I have this same problem. I have a Holley 500cfm 2bbl and the hot water plate. I shut off water to the place this summer, doens't seem to help. The thick gasket sounds like a good idea.

I'm also curious about removing the hot water spacer.

 

We used to call it vapor lock, the fuel is boiling in the carb. The water jacketed spacer was supposed to fix it. The water temp is far lower than the heat radiated from the top of the engine. A phenolic spacer should do the job but 60 bucks for it seem like a rip. I've got a 68, F-100, 360 but don't have the problem. I do have a high output fan.

 

Its a bargain compared to this Chevy Heat Shield http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-GM-QUADRAJET-CARBURETOR-HEAT-SHIELD-CAMARO-CHEVELLE-CORVETTE-GM-3969837-/171089485430?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d5ba5e76&vxp=mtr

 

So is the water jakected spacer supossed to have water circulating through it all the time? My truck's spacer only gets water when the heater valve is on. I thought it was for cold weather use only. So do I need to plumb this thing so that it has water circulating all the time?