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I didnt like any of the kits they all reduce the return line down
I keept the return line the same size drilled the filter out to 3/8 hole and dumped it back in at the heater return line
but any filter setup is better than no coolant filter setup
heres my coolant filter setup notice I tyed in before the control valve
Thanks for the pics and set-up info on the coolant filter. Appreicate the information. I found the Restore/Rstore+. Had to have it ordered from a local fleet maintenance shop. No one else could get it(local parts stores). Also found out Zerex has a Cat EC-1 Approved ELC. So have that on order also thru Napa. Expensive stuff, but supposedly good for up to 600,000 miles. Don't believe I would go that long without changing or having it checked. That Restore stuff aint cheap either, but from what I have read, it works good. Thanks for all the help. Have a good one. Gettting started on it now.
Minerals are harmful...reduced protection, reduced coolant life, increased maintenance, and premature repair. The quality of water that you use will determine the overall efficiency, reliability, and longevity of the cooling system.
Originally Posted by Hawkdriver69
Forgive my ignorance, I am just curious why you have to use distilled water instead of tap water?
Not to get all "sciencey" but corrosion or rusting as it happens in your coolant system is an electrochemical process. Distilled water doesn't conduct electricity very well so it inhibits corrosion. Adding minerals, oxides, and salts (like tap water) make it a good conductor, which promotes corrosion. Most people don't realize pure water (h2o) is an insulator.
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