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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 04:53 PM
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Need some quick help please

ok its my 1984 f150 and i went to adjust the valves due to VT noise and i got the cover off and it looks like studs so from what i read i need to TDC the piston and go one full turn past zero resistance but mine are maxed out already. are they non-adjustable?

if so than when #1 is @ TDC why am i able to move all rocker arms side to side without cycling through the cylinders? they should be tight from the preloaded lifters right?

is the cam worn out?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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Yours is more than likely the non-adjustable type.

In that case, you bring each cylinder to TDC, loosen the intake and exhaust rocker arm nuts and then retorque them to 17 - 23 ft./lbs. That's all the adjusting you can do.

If there's still rattling and looseness, your rocker arms/fulcrums/pushrods, etc. etc. may be worn. As the metal slowly wears off, the gap between each increases. Replacing them is the only fix.
If that doesn't do it, it's possible your lifters are worn out and need to be replaced.

However, before any of that, you may just have some stuck lifters that something like Marvel's Mystery Oil may clear up.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 08:35 PM
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yeah i put it back together, i only drive it three or so times a month. if i do anything to it, it looks like comp sells a kit through summit for $300 that gives me lifters,cam,springs,locks,retainers,timing kit,ect... i guess time will tell, thanks for the advice
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:03 PM
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AB and others: The cam swap thing seems to be pretty regular inquiry. It would be great if someone (AB?) would come up with condensed 'how-to' for a sticky.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:13 PM
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do you know why i seem to have all my lifters on BDC of the cam at the same time? is this a regular question?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 12:33 AM
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Disconnect the coil wire, take off the v.cover, and turn the engine over, watching each valve/rocker arm, and note whether they go up and down.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 06:16 AM
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they go up and down but all valves are closed when 1 is at TDC i would think some should be open unless the lifters are bleeding down and letting the valves close due to no oil pressure.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 09:01 AM
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Even with the lifters empty of oil, they still should be opening and closing the valves. The oil pressure in the lifters is there more for a "cushion".
A dry, sunk lifter will still open and close your valves, albeit noisily.



I agree, this needs a condensed version:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...am-how-to.html
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 04:00 PM
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thats what i was thinking and the truck seems to have VERY little power so im leaning to the cam lobes are very worn. do you know what the specs are on a oem cam?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 07:14 PM
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According to my Haynes manual stock lobe lift is .249".
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 07:30 PM
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thanks, that will help when picking a cam kit
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BaronVonAutomatc
According to my Haynes manual stock lobe lift is .249".
Really? A quarter of an inch? Is that off the base circle, a quarter of an inch travel? And a decent, mild aftermarket cam is about .450", almost twice the lift?

What duration is oem?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 01:31 AM
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I think the info is here...

https://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=58096

If you can read it.

HTH
Jim
 
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
Really? A quarter of an inch? Is that off the base circle, a quarter of an inch travel? And a decent, mild aftermarket cam is about .450", almost twice the lift?

What duration is oem?
Lobe lift (.249") * rocker arm ratio (1.6) = valve lift (.3984")

IIRC the stock cam duration is ~268 degrees but it's ground something like 10 degrees retarded.
 
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