1989 F350 w/ 460 died while driving - no restart - suggested troubleshooting?
1989 F350 crew cab dually
460 w/ separate injection
Factory dual tanks
ZF 5 speed
Nice truck - very clean rebuilt engine - ran great until yesterday
Died while driving at 40 m.p.h. in town - just cut out
Both tanks have fuel
Changed frame rail fuel filter out before it died
Will crank - but not catch and start
Where is the easiest place to check to see if I have fuel?
If I have fuel ...
What is the correct procedure to check for spark?
Thanks!
Jim
460 w/ separate injection
Factory dual tanks
ZF 5 speed
Nice truck - very clean rebuilt engine - ran great until yesterday
Died while driving at 40 m.p.h. in town - just cut out
Both tanks have fuel
Changed frame rail fuel filter out before it died
Will crank - but not catch and start
Where is the easiest place to check to see if I have fuel?
If I have fuel ...
What is the correct procedure to check for spark?
Thanks!
Jim
You can check if the fuel system has power with a fuse, relay operation etc. If you turn the key listen for a humming from the fuel pump pressurizing the system before its turned over. You can make a simple check by putting a finger on some injectors while somebody turns the ignition to turn the engine. Clicking indicates the injectors have power.
Pressure regulators have a diaphram in them and they use a vacuum line to operate it. The vacuum line could smell of gasoline, if its a strong smell chances are you have a bad regulator.
Take one spark plug out, insert the wire end into the plug wire again and hold the j-strap electrode to the cylinder head. You should see a spark jump the gap if the power is present in the ignition system.
If you use a test light that just a clear handled tool that has a light turn on, don't rely on that, those ones light up at 2 volts, vehicles has 12 volt systems. Use a digital multimeter.
Pressure regulators have a diaphram in them and they use a vacuum line to operate it. The vacuum line could smell of gasoline, if its a strong smell chances are you have a bad regulator.
Take one spark plug out, insert the wire end into the plug wire again and hold the j-strap electrode to the cylinder head. You should see a spark jump the gap if the power is present in the ignition system.
If you use a test light that just a clear handled tool that has a light turn on, don't rely on that, those ones light up at 2 volts, vehicles has 12 volt systems. Use a digital multimeter.
Thank you Jim 
I will follow those recommendations tomorrow & post the results
This is a really clean 460 engine ....
Kinda weird to be driving & have your engine just die on you
I have had 351W gas engines before
Never a 460 w/ separate injectors
The past few years I have been driving F350 duallys
w/ the 7.3 IDI engine
I am used to those engines & their problems
Jim
I will follow those recommendations tomorrow & post the results
This is a really clean 460 engine ....
Kinda weird to be driving & have your engine just die on you

I have had 351W gas engines before
Never a 460 w/ separate injectors
The past few years I have been driving F350 duallys
w/ the 7.3 IDI engine
I am used to those engines & their problems

Jim
So .....
The truck sat for a day on my trailer.
I just went out & it started right up - I ran it for 5 minutes.
I suspect an intermittent electrical problem.
I had only driven it for about 5 minutes when it cut out
driving down the road - just shut down.
I really don't wan't to risk another road test or just
start replacing components ....
Again, this is a really clean engine - nothing has been
altered or hacked that I can see ....
Any suggestions?
Jim
The truck sat for a day on my trailer.
I just went out & it started right up - I ran it for 5 minutes.
I suspect an intermittent electrical problem.
I had only driven it for about 5 minutes when it cut out
driving down the road - just shut down.
I really don't wan't to risk another road test or just
start replacing components ....
Again, this is a really clean engine - nothing has been
altered or hacked that I can see ....
Any suggestions?
Jim
Grab a notebook and a pencil. Grab a manual and look at your electrical schematic, as you check things write them down and what you see when you inspect connections and components. Could be a broken piece that settles back down and makes a connection or a loosened piece.
Start at the battery and work your way down the line, checking a gas engine vehicle is the same as checking a diesel IMO. You just have less or more parts employed.
Start at the battery and work your way down the line, checking a gas engine vehicle is the same as checking a diesel IMO. You just have less or more parts employed.
PIP
It sounds like the PIP sensor in the distributor went out. You can swap the dist. out with a known good one to check the results. You can get a PIP sensor at any parts house and swap it out for around $20.But you`ll need to press off the dist. gear to get at it.It sounds like the same thing that happened to my truck. Hope this helps.
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For no start issues check for the following.
Air,
Spark,
Fuel
A fuel test gauge on the fuel rail will let you know if your getting enough fuel to start the engine.
A quick and effective way to know if your getting spark is to pull that spark plug wire coming off the ignition coil from the distributor side. insert a screw driver in the boot. Holding the screw driver a spark plug gap's distance off the engine block crank the engine. you should see good hot spark. If no spark check for a bad ignition coil, TFI, or Distributor. In rare cases pulling the EEC and checking the board for damage is required.
One thing not mentioned in this thread is to check fuses. I think on the pre 92 trucks there is a power distribution box under the hood on the drivers side with fuses in it and also a fuse box inside the cab, also with fuses in it. I have had this very issue on a truck. It turned out it was a large system fuse although I don't remember what it was as it was many years ago.
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