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I have to do a brake job on my 95 EB, Changing rotors and pads. Could anyone give me a quick overview of taking apart the hubs. Its all automatic locking.
Pads are cut and dry. I'm sure you know that
The rotors you have to have all caliper bracketa removed. Auto locking hubs I've taken apart once....after I exploded them lol. There's a snap ring that's up inside the hub housing. Easiest way to remove it that I found is to have a small flat head screw driver and some needle nose pliers and some patients. Next is the lock ring on the axle shaft itself. A pair of snap ring pliers or a small set pf needle nose works great
Then you pull the hub itself out. Then the rotor pulls off. Sometimes hard to do but its manageable. Amyone can correct me if I'm wrong but pretty sure that's how it goes
I took my '94's auto hubs apart years ago to lube up the pilot bearings in the spindle, etc. My two hubs were different, one was a 3 screw cover, the other was a 5 screw cover. Inside, there were differencesbetween the two. I cleaned up all the pieces and reassembled after lubing with ATF as per manual. There are a lot of pieces inside and it may not be obvious how to put it back together without making a drawing as you go along, and laying the parts out in order. I had a harder time because I had 2 different types to deal with.
I needed the Dana 44 IFS Ford-type hub socket for the nut, available at auto parts stores. I had an absolute devil of a time getting that internal snap ring out of the inside of the hub cast iron on one side. The other side wasn't quite as bad, but was frustrating. Removing the snap ring was near the beginning of the disassembly process.
I once knew all about this, but it's been quite a few years since I did it and don't remember much. I'll have to get into it again to replace a leaking left side axle seal at the differential.
Edit- I'm wondering if I really needed the special socket, or not. I know the write-up said I needed it, but I have a vague recollection that I didn't need it after all.
Whats the front end of a stock bronco? The only thing im worried about is screwing up the order of what goes back in.But ive got a bronco graveyard catalog that has pictures and specs of the axles. It shows what piece it what and what order everything goes in.
Auto hubs are 3 screws and manual hubs are 5 screws. If you have to go to each front wheel and engage the switch for 4wd, you have manual hubs.
All the Broncos I've ever seen are manual hubs, But I'm sure theres some auto hubs out there. Just pay attention as you take it apart and put it back the same way. Easiest way for the little snap ring on the edge is to take a tiny flathead screwdriver and pop it out.
Use regular snap ring pliers on the inner snap ring that is around the axle shaft if you have one there. You will need a spindle nut socket also. There are two kinds so make sure you get the right one.
If you use your 4x4 you might want to look into doing the manual hub conversion while your at it since you will have everything apart anyways. I just did this to mine. Jeffs Bronco Graveyard has a kit.
if you have the extra cash and/or go wheelin with your bronco it might be worth swapping out the auto hubs for manuals since your taking everything appart. the stock auto locks are kinda poopy
Id love to change to manual locking, but I dont have the money for that right now. I havent gone off roading yet mainly cause my rear end isnt 100%. I used 4x4 a few times during the winter and never had issues engaging and disengaging. So its really not a priority right now but I will do it eventually. Still id like to lift my truck up a bit first and get new tires
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