How do I remove 3-screw hubs
Any help is appreciated. I tried searching this forum and, of course, reading my Haynes manual. The search resulted in way too many posts and the Haynes manual does not cover these hubs.
Thanks,
Randy
Auto Lockout Removal:
-pull the three screws out
-remove the lock ring around the perimeter of the hub; follow your finger around the ring to find a small open section where you can insert a small sharp metal object (punch tool, small screw driver, small hex key, any of these should work), pry 1 part of ring out with tool and use another tool to follow all the way around the ring until it pops out
-insert 2 screws back into into the hub and use them to pull the locking assembly out
-remove retaining ring and thrustwashers
-cam assembly will slide right out
-remove lock ring; there is a prong driven into wheel retainer which can be a bit of a hassle to remove, I ended up bending mine while removing it (but I swapped to manual lockouts so I didn't need the part); a pair of needlenose pliers might help getting this out
-remove outer wheel bearing
Brake removal:
-remove 2 bolts on back of caliper
-slide caliper and pads off of rotor
-rest caliper on frame or crossmember
-slide rotor straight off of hub (might need a little convincing but if healthy it should slide right off)
**inner wheel bearing and seal should come off with rotor**
-remove seal and inner wheel bearing from rotor
Brake reinstall:
-install inner wheel bearing and seal into new rotor (don't forget to pack the bearings!)
-slide rotor onto spindle until it sets all the way back
-pack and install outer wheel bearing
-reinstall lockout components in reverse order, torque spindle nut(s) to recommended spec (not sure what it is for the auto hub...)
**I recommend swapping to manual lockouts while you have the hubs dissembled**
-coat caliper-to-pad contact points on the pad backing plates with white lithium grease to prevent squeaks (optional)
-compress caliper piston with compression tool (C-clamp will also work but make sure to place the end of the clamp in the CENTER of the piston)
**be careful to watch brake fluid reservoir for overflow. you will most likely need to siphon some fluid out of reservoir because of the displacement cause by new thicker pads**
-insert pads onto caliper
-slide caliper onto rotor
-insert 2 bolts on back of caliper
Put wheels on!
Sorry if I went into more detail about the brake job than you needed. I was bored

ON EDIT: Found an exploded diagram of the Dana 44 stock auto lockout assembly, courtesy of Warn. I added some additional steps to the lockout removal procedure.
Last edited by Skandocious; Aug 4, 2007 at 03:34 AM.
Randy
Whoops, by the way, Welcome to FTE!
Last edited by Skandocious; Aug 4, 2007 at 02:36 PM.
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You need a special socket to remove the wheel retainer nut.
IIRC, It is about 3 1/2 inch and 6 sided to fit correctly.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Jack it up and place a jackstand underneath the axle assembly and make sure it's flat and stable.
Randy


Sunrnr33...........Where can I find an internal parts break down of the 1997 one ton Dana 60 Auto Hub assembly? I need to take mine apart.




