Has anyone got any experience with engine pre-oilers? I am going to rebuild my (1971 F-250 4x4) 360 engine and I was wondering if it would be worth the expense to purchase a pre-oiler.

 

Yes they are a good thing to have but , the oil can be circulated simply by cranking the engine over with the starter , so my advice is to save your money for other things .
Jon

 

I admit I preach about pre-lubers whenever I get a chance ( or if someone will listen). I looked at the pre-manufatured ones but the $400.00+ US was a little steep. I looked around and found a used sealed 12VDC motor and gear driven pump. A good place to find these is lawn tractor dealers or heavy equipment yards. I mounted it to the passenger side frame, my oil pan has the plug on the side so I put in a tee fitting allowing draining and Hydraulic hose to the pump suction. The discharge hose then feeds up to the back of the block with another fitting to allow my pressure gauge to tie in. I powered it off the starter relay connection with another relay so I didn't have high current through the switch. The switch is spring loaded so I don't forget its on. If the truck sits for a week or more you can see how long it takes to get good oil pressure. The electronic guys on the site could probably provide you with a circuit diagram that would tie into your starting circuit and shut down if you wanted. I prefer the KISS principle. The pump being positive displacement it won't allow back flow and for the couple years I've run it I never have had any problems. Maybe not for everyone but I enjoy the peace of mind after putting so much into the motor. Good Luck.
John.

 

While it's true that the oil can be circulated by cranking the starter, what we're trying to do is get oil into the bearings and lifters BEFORE things start moving.

I have an Accusump, which is basically like a pressure tank on a well with a solenoid valve which opens at ignition on. Then you wait 10 seconds before cranking. A restricted refill opening reloads it when running. The back flow flap in the oil filter keeps the oil from going back to the pan (use a filter with a silicone valve like FL-820S).

In the past I've used a commercial pre-oiler with a small pump, but it failed after about 30,000 miles. Also, it drew unfiltered oil direct from the pan.

I'm now figuring how to add a bypass filter.

All this is, no doubt, overkill, unless you want your engine to run like new for 250,000 miles!

 

MrBSS, Amsoil Corp. of Superior, Wi. offers by pass filter kits to fit virtually anything.

 

Thank you for the input.

I have seen the Amsoil unit, and actually was considering buying one that was listed on eBay, but I think I prefer the design used by OilGuard. The Amsoil apparently relocates the main AND the bypass filter. This lengthens the normal main flow path and also necessitates its flow through hoses. I know that the oil hoses are very good nowadays, but I still see them as a weakness.

With the OilGuard, I can hard pipe to a shut off valve, then go through a smaller, less critical hose, which could be shut down entirely in case it leaks. This unit draws from the tapped holes in the oil filter base casting (there are two on my 4.6; one for the factory pressure sensor, one plugged). The OilGuard discharges into the valve cover; I think it will be into the tube under the oil fill cap, so I don't have to mess too much with existing seals.

The OilGuard is also less expensive both initially and for replacement filters.

 

Superior WI? hey that's where I work! But I found a cordless electric drill with a nut driver cut off installed into the chuck and the other end holding a socket that fits the oil pump rod and go, go, go !! believe it or not it works okay...and it's free...so to speak.

 

I've always used a drill with extension and socket on the end to prime the pump and ensure that I have oil pressure at the (mechanical) gauge and coming out of the push rods.

You're taking a chance by cranking the engine over with the starter before making sure you have oil pressure.