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Hitch Question.....

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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 12:15 PM
  #1  
Solomon_Man's Avatar
Solomon_Man
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Hitch Question.....

All,
I have a 1991 F150 Lariat with the 4.9 L motor and the E40D auto transmission.

The vehicle has been a very reliable vehicle and is starting to show its age.

The reason for the post is I need some information concerning hitches.

I commonly pull a pop up camper (~2700lbs and very nose/front heavy) with a 2 inch ball, two small boats (14ft) on occasion (2in - fairly light), and one very large trailer that has in the past hauled close to 6000lbs (never hauled with this truck but may need two before end of this summer).

I am looking for answers to the following questions;

1) What class hitch kit should I get as the truck currently only has the normal bumper bolted on hitch.

2) The bumper in that past has dropped and the rear very section of both beams have been replaced/rewelded. How does the hitch kits attach to the vehicle?

My beams are solid except for where the bumper tied in as the multiple holes for the bumper rusted that small area out. Do they tie in the frame at the bumper tie in location at the beam or does the hitch tie in farther up front of the vehicle.

What I hope to do is tie in a new hitch assembly before the troubled area and not use the bumper as a pull point any longer or at least as the main stress point as before.

I have read some previous posts where people completely rewelded the back section and I have consider this approach but I think the new hitch should be added in as well and want to know all my options at this point.

Thanks,
Chris
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 12:25 PM
  #2  
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IowanStraight6
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From: Small town Iowa
They bolt on the bottom lip of the frame id try to reinforce it if its that badly rusted
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 12:43 PM
  #3  
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Solomon_Man
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Hitch...

Thanks for the info.

I saw those holes and thought they may have been for drainage.

I believe that area was ok, I will have to dive under the truck and take a look to double check.

Does anyone know the hitch ratings for Class III, Class IV, Class V. and does the installation get more difficult as the class number rises or is it the same bolt pattern just heavier steel?

Thanks,
Chris
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 01:49 PM
  #4  
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quaddriver
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From: Cook Forest and Irwin PA
your frame is shot. (sorry)

search the project page for my 'rusty frame fix'.

It will add a few years to your truck, but you need at least a class 3 hitch, preferably 4 and the big 6000lb camper needs a W/D hitch and a bigger engine really.

I can weld up a new package for a fee or show you how for free.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 02:26 PM
  #5  
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Hitch...

Thanks for the information!

I have a buddy who is a professional welder, and has welded up and redone a few classic cars and he took a shot at the issue and it seems to be solid today. I have had the bumper bolts loosen up on me a few months back but upon a retight attempt the issue seem fine ... for now.

My goal is to add a reese hitch and remove using the bumper as the main pulling point as it is today.

We did not experience any problem with the truck until we started to pull the 2700LB camper around. It may have been coincidental (meaning the camper pulling exposed a problem) or it could have been the cause but I would think that the reese hitch may reduce the stress on the welds going forward.

The 6000lb trailer situation is not a camper luckily and is a construction demo trailer. Its referred to as a trash trailer. It was used in my late dads business... today its used to haul house remodelling supplies/trash to the dump etc and the distance is never greater then 20 miles using back roads never exceeding 55mph. In fact I have not taken it over 15 miles full in 7 yrs. Its usually only filled to around 3000 lbs but the heaviest I have filled it was 6000 lbs with 10 square of roofing three layers thick.

I was thinking a Class IV, to be safe.

QuadDriver if you can shoot me a link, I am fairly new here, I would like to see what you would suggest.... just in case I have problems going forward.

I appreciate all the help,
Chris
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 08:34 AM
  #6  
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From: Cook Forest and Irwin PA
try this:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6592220
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 10:53 AM
  #7  
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nstueve
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Hey just so you know the bumpers on the F150's that were set up for a ball are usually rated for 5000lb towing. Look in your owners manual. I remember reading another thread on here where the owner found and scaned in his OEM Ford Manual page that said bumpers were good for 5K.

I think his deal was that U-haul was making him get a class IV (5K lb) hitch to pull a trailer even though his bumper was rated for 5K already... Just my 2cents!

If the rear bumper is loose have a friend hit it with an air impact!
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 11:06 AM
  #8  
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Hitch...

QuadDriver,

I am thinking in the coming weeks on redoing the rear shocks on the F150 pickup.

So maybe I could pull the bed, drop the tank, and put your correction in place with new shocks and a new reese Class IV hitch and call it good.

What kind of numbers are we talking for you to weld me up a set?

Also where are you located? I commonly go to Clarion PA (family vacation trip) and Buffalo NY area (family).

My buddy may be able to do it... but as you know exactly what you did it may be easier for you to do up a set and then have him give me a hand getting the bed off and if we need to undo anything he did to put your correction in place.

This is not a hurry job as I have a extra Van and Truck to pull things but if I could get it done in the next couple weeks/month or so....that would fit my time frame and budget.

Let me know,
Chris
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 12:07 PM
  #9  
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quaddriver
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From: Cook Forest and Irwin PA
for me to acquire the metal (I get it from the scrap dumpster at a local metal fabricating shop - their trash is our gold) and measure, weld etc, you are looking at about 100-120ish.

pulling the bed, dropping tanks and doing everything in the open is always preferred, my method has you removing the rear spring hanger rivets and rebolting with 1/2 and 7/16ths bolts and those bolts thru BOTH plates, the hanger and the original frame is what ties it up
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 12:13 PM
  #10  
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Hitch...

Quaddriver,

The price seems reasonable.

I will talk it over with my friend and see what shocks, hitch, etc will cost.

You will most likely hear from me in the next few weeks/month or so.

Thanks,
Chris
 
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Old May 29, 2012 | 09:29 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by quaddriver
for me to acquire the metal (I get it from the scrap dumpster at a local metal fabricating shop - their trash is our gold) and measure, weld etc, you are looking at about 100-120ish.

pulling the bed, dropping tanks and doing everything in the open is always preferred, my method has you removing the rear spring hanger rivets and rebolting with 1/2 and 7/16ths bolts and those bolts thru BOTH plates, the hanger and the original frame is what ties it up

Where are you in "Central PA"? I happen to be headed to Carlisle soon.
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 07:26 AM
  #12  
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If you haul the heavier trailer much you may look into a set of Hellwig load leveling springs for about 200 bucks. I would definitely add a nice size trans cooler since one of the root causes of problems in the E40D has always been heat.
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 07:38 AM
  #13  
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LMC Truck Parts - Page 89

Class III
 
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