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I'm running an 89 F250. I have a brand new HP fuel pump, I have replaced the fuel pump relay and the other relay associated with it. Yesterday, my rig kept starving out for fuel and rolling to a stop on the side of the road. I kept checking under the hood by the relays and self test plug, wiggle some wires and make sure the relays were completely inserted into their holders. It seemed like everything was OK and when I would turn the key, I would hear the HP pump kick in and away I would go. After 4 - 5 mini breakdowns on the side of the road; the big breakdown came and I was left needing a tow to get my rig back to the house. It seems like there is a problem with the key switch sending power to the fuel relay from the accessory position in the steering column.....Any advise on this issue i'm having would be greatly appreciated.........Thanks
I was having a similar problem with break downs and changed out the switch...ignition switch is a easy/cheap part to replace. Be sure to remove the neg battery cable first
My ignition switch has been problematic ever since I bought my truck. Shortly after I bought it, it lost it's ability to start when the ignition switch was turned all the way to the cranking position. I ended up installing a push button switch on the floor by the gear shift. All I have to do is turn the key to the on position and hit the push button. It's been that way for several years. I had purchased a new ignition switch years ago but never used it. I switched the old one out today and installed the new one but to no avail. It still won't start. I'm wondering if the problem isn't deeper in the collumn. There is a snap ring down inside the ignition switch cylinder but you have to be a magician to get it out. Standard snap rimg pliers are about 1.5 inches too short to reach it??/I don't even know if i'm looking in the right place to solve this problem or not.
wish I knew to leave the snap ring alone. Now I have it out and getting it back in is even harder than getting it out. (and there is nothing to see in there except a cog that engages the steel bar that runs down the steering column) I will go out and do a self test on the fuel pump. I do not expect the pump to be bad because it's only a few weeks old.
Strangely, i'm getting 12 volts at both sides of the HP fuel pump, POS and NEG??????????????????????????????? but it doesn't run
If you're measuring the voltages with the connector plugged into
the fuel pump, that would indicate the Black wire (ground path for the fuel
pump motor) is not grounded.
Thank you all for the advice. Ironically, the problem was at the inertia switch. I located it several weeks back while I was having a similar issue. Someone previous to me had jumped out the inertia switch with a paper clip (which I left that way). This time the paper clip in the ineertia switch had built up with oxidation which stopped the 12 volts right there. I cut out the switch with the jumper and spliced the wire straight through. I'll have to install a new inertia switch at some point but for now i'm running again.
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