Hi again.
I have a '66 Ford F100 and the Door Jamb Switch broke.
I have ordered a replacement from LMC Truck.

My question is:
Is there a trick I should know before replacing this?
I have never done this before and want to ask now, before I realize I should have done something different.

You guys haven't let me down yet! (knock on wood)

Thanks, Bob

 

I may be crazy, but I have a '66 F100, and to my knowledge these trucks don't have a door jamb switch.

Cars had them that turned on interior lighting when the door was opened, but these trucks dome lights were controlled by the headlight switch by twisting to turn the dome light on/off.

 

the bumpsides have a door jamb switch, maybe someone installed one on your truck Bob.

my 66 does not have one either Greg.

 

It's quite rare for one a these trucks to have door jamb switches...which...if present, were only used with the dealer installed accessory courtesy lamps.

Look underneath the dash at either end, see if there's a tear drop shaped courtesy lamp mounted there. If present, there will also be switches in the R/L "A" pillar (door jamb).

The R/L courtesy lamps came as a kit, were an accessory available at the parts counter (only) for 1961/66 F Series trucks. Also an accessory for 1960/64 full sized Ford Passenger Cars.

If these lamps are not present, there are no switches...as original.

Dunno what door jamb switch LMC is selling, you'll prolly get a universal "fitz-all" switch. If it doesn't fit, measure the switch mounting hole.

If the tear drop lamp kit was installed, there are two possible switches. One type has a 3/4"" O.D. mounting hole, the other type has a 7/8" O.D. mounting hole.

 

How do you tell the difference between the one with the 7/8" O.D. mounting and the other one with the 7/8" O.D. mounting hole?

 

Typo, now reads 3/4"

 

I do have door jamb switches, which operate two lights on each side by floor. I have them, they are there. Fine if they are aftermarket, but my question is about replacing them. I just was hoping to get any tips about replacing them. I am not an electrition, and don't like messing with wiring. I don't want to do something wrong and fry my electric system or something and find out info after-the-fact. That's the reason I'm asking.
~Bob
ps) LMC said they have one that covers the years 50something to 1967, and they changed in 68.
(one would think they would know, but what do I know)

Here's a picture of what I have now, as broken
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...g?t=1311006557

 

Did I say the lamps were aftermarket? No, and I'm prolly the only FTE member that is aware of the genuine Ford accessory courtesy lamps that were installed in these trucks.

To remove the switch, pry on the bezel, when it pops out, unplug it...it's as simple as that. There will be two female connectors on the backside of the switch.

F Series truck door jamb switches: 1967 is one year only, not the same as 1968/72. And there are about 40 different switches used from the 1950's thru 1972, all on Passenger Cars with 3 exceptions.

There were two different switches used 1961/66 with the accessory courtesy lights. The diameter of the switch is the difference.

LMC is selling a gypo universal fitz-all...if they claim it fits 1950 something to 1967.

 

Thanks.
Will the "Gypo Universal Fitz-All" work alright, or should I be looking elsewhere for a replacement?

 

If the diameter is the same, and has the same connectors, it may work. If it doesn't, measure the diameter of the mounting hole, report back.

There are dozens of the two original switches available from FoMoCo Dealers/obsolete parts vendors, as both were primarily used in cars.

 

Thanks,
I will let you know. Appreciate the help!!
~Bob

 

Alright, the one I recieved from LMC is a little larger than existing one and a bit different. Surprise, surprise! Old one measures 5/8" in diameter, new one is bigger (9/16") but works in door jamb hole. The problem I have is that the old one slides into a sleeve with tabs on each side. New one is too big to slide into sleeve & odes not have said tabs. Also old one has just the right size holes for both metal prongs to fit into, the new ones holes are slightly larger as well. It seems like it would work if I cut the "sleeve" part off old female end, connected new male piece, and taped together. BUT...I don't like to "rig" it together like that.
Attached is a photo of both "male" ends. (new one is the black one obviously)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...g?t=1311558180