Roof Insulation
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: South Carolina
Roof Insulation
I started into the overhead consule circuit board repair today to fix dim display lights. The soldering was way to delicate for me so I sent the unit out to Autoclockrepair ($34.95 and they guarantee their work). Anyway, while looking at the big void in my roof I could not help but notice there is no insulation there. One of the reasons for failure of these circuit boards is heat.
Has anyone insulated the overhead? Any reason for not doing this?
Has anyone insulated the overhead? Any reason for not doing this?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
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From: Sacramento Area
I'm wondering, what would you use? With rear air ducts and that "framework" that supports the roof, is there anything you could use that wouldn't drop down with gravity and mess up the headliner?
Duramat is adhesive and thin, but it's used to deaden and soundproof...not sure it would insulate. I haven't heard of anything else you could use...
Duramat is adhesive and thin, but it's used to deaden and soundproof...not sure it would insulate. I haven't heard of anything else you could use...
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
Now that I think on it...I wonder if you took some thinner rubber tubing (like what is used on the door seal mod), tapped in to the rear air ducts and ran it to the console area (specifically the forward area by the trip computer)...would that push just enough cool air to help the circuit board, or would subjecting the solder points to that much of a temperature change over and over just make the solder points fail sooner?
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Swamp, FL
A friend of mine swears that LizardSkin LizardSkin® Spray-On Insulation : Lizardskin works wonders for heat. However, I think its somewhat costly....
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: South Carolina
Aluminum Insulation
I was thinking aluminum insulation too. It would be best if it could be attached to the roof so it does not fall on the liner or against the components I am trying to protect. Not sure what type of adhesive would withstand the high and low temps.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,407
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From: Milwaukee, WI
I think the temp would be about the same with added insulation. It could slow, ever so slightly, the rate that the console area heats up but since the cab gets so hot sitting in the sun and heat rises, the console area is one of the hottest points inside the truck.
Insulation is primarily used when you want to keep one areas temperature from transfering to the other area. Seems the natural sun created cabin heat will counter the idea of insulation.
I think a higher grade solder resolves the problem. I think the issue was low grade and too little solder so it would not withstand the heat.
I have not heard of a fixed unit ever failing in the future. Anyone?
Insulation is primarily used when you want to keep one areas temperature from transfering to the other area. Seems the natural sun created cabin heat will counter the idea of insulation.
I think a higher grade solder resolves the problem. I think the issue was low grade and too little solder so it would not withstand the heat.
I have not heard of a fixed unit ever failing in the future. Anyone?
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From: Taylors, SC
How about a foil backed fiberglass blanket with a nominal thickness of 1"? You can buy a roll of duct wrap insulation at your local HVAC supply house for less than $100 and do yours, mine, and a buddys. It would be light weight, so it would not matter if it laid on top of the headliner. The new stuff has a R8 insulation value.
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