I would send the injectors to rosewood diesel for testing and not let your mechanic decide. If some need to be rebuilt, you want someone that is going to do it right and has a good reputation or you could spend more money in the long run.

 

Bummer. So, in order to remove the injectors, he had to have the valve covers off. At that moment in time, he could have attempted to start the engine and would have seen which injector was bypassing oil. I am guessing that didn't happen...convenient isn't it?

Is he going to have the injectors tested for free? And if they test good is he going to re-install them with new o-rings for no charge?

 

No i have to pay to have them tested.

 

Honestly, it sounds to me like he doesnt know for sure what is going on, so he is trying to pass off the job to someone else, while making money off you. My vote would be to get your truck back, and let the people on here help you figure out for yourself what is going on. I know it may seem daunting, but the guys (and gals) on here know their stuff, and are very good at explaining what to do. Remember that you are paying this mechanic for all the work, and as such you hold some power. If he does not want to listen to how YOU want the work do be done on YOUR truck, then IMO he should not be getting YOUR hard earned money. Yes doing it yourself may take some more time, but then again the guys on here should be able to point you in a better direction than this guy is doing and in the end that fact may save more time and get you back on the road, with potentially a better running truck.

Keep in mind, this is simply a mechanical problem, so what is involved is simply removing and replacing items. Not to mention doing it yourself will give you more confidence in working on your truck, and could save you some money in the long run.

 

I would at a minim ask for opinions on good reliable shops in your area! I'm sure someone on here has had an experienced DIESEL mechanic near you treat them right just start a a new thread under help shop needed near _________! And you will get a result, I really recommend you get your trucknto someone who is capable of a fix rather than a series of guesses!!!!

 

Ok so after questioning him about what u guys said I pissed him off and he just called and told me my trucks outside come get it. So now I'm on my own with your guys help!

 

Yeah.... well sounds like he doesn't have a clue, anyway. My advice... RUN! Find a good, reputable diesel mechanic in your area, or do some research and fix it yourself!

If you go the DIY route.. I highly recommend getting an AE w/Ford bundle. Awesome tool, and for the cost of having it scanned by a mechanic 2-3 times, you now own your own scanner/tester!

Good luck, either way!

 

I sent you a pm with my cell number so we can talk if you would like.

You will need new o-rings and the procedure to reinstall the injectors. Must use new o-rings and evacuate the cylinders of fluid.

Ordering AE is a really good idea at this point if you are willing to work on your own truck. Do you have a laptop?

Here is a link that talks about installing injectors...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10438805

Here is a link to the AE with enhanced Ford Bundle
Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity Total Ford Enhanced Bundle

Clay also has the injector o-rings...
Riffraff Diesel: Alliant Injector O-rings

When you get AE, here is the no-start diagnostic procedure that most of us follow.

 

great post greg!!!

tried to rep ya but cant

 

I'm glad you got your truck out of there. I was thinking that yesterday but didn't say anything. Reminds me of when I needed work on a manual transmission. I took it in to get their "free estimate" they had advertised. They called back a few hours later telling me they tore it all apart and was going to be $900 to rebuild. I said no thanks I can get one for half the price at a junk yard. That guy was pi$$ed.

You can get a new set of rebuild injectors for around $1000 and would still be cheaper than paying your mechanic. Sending in the injectors for testing or just replacing o rings is another option. Greg is a good guy and very knowledgeable. Reps sent to him for the offer to help you out. You also might want to give rosewood diesel a call and see what they suggest. Good luck.

 

It may seem daunting! But you don't really have any thing to worry bought you are in better shape knowing what's going on than being at a hucksters mercy, did you post the help thread For your area?

 

Thanks just the same!

Thanks for the reps Grant!
I recommend Rosewood for injector rebuilds as well. He was very helpful to me and his price was very reasonable. I definitely plan to use his services again when the need arises.

I agree with Jim. Would be a good idea to post a thread for AE help in your area. Someone near you might be able to help. Your issue might be as simple as bad batteries. I've seen several mechanics throw parts at a no start issue just to find out the batteries were low. These engines will crank super fast even on bad batteries but still won't start. Again, we can tell all this stuff with AE and see what's really going on.

 

Ok pulled off the driverside valve cover off after talking with greg a bunch of times on the phone (thank you!) and narrowing things down a little bit. However, i see no oil coming from any where when we crank the truck over?? not sure why. did i miss something?

things we checked:

HPOP oil level = about 13/4 inch below top
ICP unplugged = no difference
Plugged the heater in while diagnosing = made no difference
Pulled ICP out and turned over the truck and oil just slowly came out the hole (greg says "i never heard of anyone doing this before" i said "ya we're rednecks") but we are thinking it should shoot out of this hole fast being it the sensor for HPO

We did get it running after LONG cranking... Greg heard this on the phone. It runs rough for about 5-10 seconds and then smooths out. Turn off the truck and immediately start it and its fine.... however wait 2 minutes and again LONG start. I have 11.4 volts on both batteries while cranking.

ALSO: checked the oil and it was reading DOUBLE the full mark on the dip stick and had a shiny tint to it (metal) this is new wasn't like this before! However we drained a gallon of oil out and then rechecked the oil and no more shiny tint to it and it was just a hair over full. (mechanic must have over filled it to see if it was the pick up tube cracked, after i told him i already checked that)

 

Sounds like you are not building enough icp to fire the injectors. You need around 500psi for them to fire. AE would really help to figure it out. It could be anything from a bad ipr to bad injectors.

 

Also forgot to mention that i put a new IPR in when the HPOP was installed. Forgot about this until greg said something about it.