GTL is gas-to-liquid but I'm unsure the process of how or why it's added to diesel other than emissions related.

I called it "fancy" diesel because we don't have it...LOL.

 

Well, I finally got my CEL condition rectified after many months. Took advice offered on the forum here, and went to another dealer.
Bad NOX sensor.
After replacement, no more CEL, in spite of first dealer's blaming all on AFE air filter and my tinted windows. Also needed friction modifier in rear diff since it was chattering, especially when going in reverse and cutting the steering wheel sharply. They wanted to upgrade clutches in there (said there was a recall), but when they took diff cover off, they noticed the upgraded parts had already been installed (early Job2 truck), so they put it all back as was, after losing an extra day for naught. I guess problem is now solved and I have the needed friction modifier and fresh lube in there.
Only the traction control light still comes on for no reason once in a while, and goes out by itself. New dealer had nothing to say about that, except it didn't happen while he had my truck.

But here's the bad part. Because of my challenging experiences with dealer #1, I decided to ask Dealer number #2 if the other guy gave me the correct coolant additive. I had bought 3 bottles as recommended, and over the last year, had used two of them. The new dealer looked at the remaining bottle (I think it was called RC8), and according to him, it is for the 7.3L engine. So he gave me credit for the remaining bottle and I paid the difference to get the correct additive (almost double the price).
So I asked what to do. They recommended a coolant flush at $350. So I called dealer #1 and told him what he had done, and he said it probably didn't matter which coolant additive I used. He promised to check and get back to me (but it has been 2 days). So I called Ford and asked them. They didn't know either, and said they would get back to me within 4 business days. Three days have elapsed. I hope I'll be able to get this rectified by the party at fault very soon, and before any possible damage occurs. No one seems to know for sure yet.

Now the final puzzler. I originally had a low power condition that was greatly improved by the new sensor. But there is still a lot of turbo lag. The new dealer INSISTS that the F450/F550's have a slightly different turbo with no wastegate and different programming. I always thought that downgrade was only on the chassis cabs? But they insist they are correct. How can I find out if my truck has the downgraded turbo without the wastegate? I will not live with the low power condition much longer! Are they just saying that so I will accept as fact that nothing can be done so I'll stop complaining?

 

I would spend some time reading the 6.7 "coffee table book" and learn what the wastegated turbo looks like. If you know what to look for, the difference should be easily spotted.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man....7L_Diesel.pdf

 

Just a quick hijack here but page 30 seems to answer the debate about the engine block heater from another thread....https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...h-you-got.html

Engine Block Heater
The engine block heater is located on
the right side of the engine block. The
block heater uses 110V AC to heat
the engine coolant in cold weather
climates. Use the engine block heater
must be used whenever ambient
temperatures are at or below -23°C
(-9°F).
The engine block heater is standard
on every engine. The power cord is an
optional accessory.

The debate was that the engine block heater wasn't included on all engines. According to this, the element is there on all of them as it was with the Navistar engines and the power cord is the optional part of it. Thanks cheezit.

 

Cheezit, the manual is very appreciated! I looked at it, and just like everyone on the forum states, since I have a pickup (and not a chassis cab), I should have the wastegated turbo/programming.
I will compare what's under my hood to the pictures in the catalog tomorrow, and see for myself. Hopefully it isn't too crowded under the hood for me to spot the identifying differences.

 

Perhaps you could have a talk with my engine and explain to it that the dummy plug in the place where the block heater should be is just a figment of it's imagination. Same deal with my brother's truck and 3 or 4 others that I have looked at. I think there is some misinformation in that guide probably because it was published before the engine was released to the public.

 

also look at the layout of the src exhaust. they are set up different on the cab chasis as well as weather or not you have hydroboost or vacuum brakes.
I have not worked on a f450 pickup as of yet so I should learn something here.

 

So in other words, this is yet another of Ford's "cost cutter" approaches to producing these trucks?

 

So it would seem. I don't remember the exact price but I'm thinking my brother paid somewhere in the neighborhood of $110-$120 for the heater and the cord. The block heater option was ordered on my truck and realized a few months ago that I don't have it. The truck will be going in to the dealer in a few weeks for some small concerns. I am looking forward to the dealer's explanation of this one since it appears on the window sticker but definitely not on the engine block!

 

Well that stinks. Mine had it on the sticker and I verified that it was on the truck.

 

Sorry for the hijack Von. Everything I've read and seen on the 2011s shows that the engine in the pickups (F-450 included) is the same 400 / 800. The engine in the chassis-cabs is the derated version. I don't know if the dealer is confused or just doesn't want to explore the issue any further.

 

This site is such a tremendous resource! Anyone can learn a lot just by reading manageable little tid-bits of information from the experiences of others and by studying the available manuals (and EpicCowlick videos, LOL). I actually feel somewhat informed when I go to the dealer these days, and if it wasn't for this forum, I would have to believe everything the dealer tells me, and fully half of everything I've heard from (multiple) dealers has been either wrong or worse.

Just got confirmation my King shocks shipped today! Woo-hoo. No more losing my dentures on the dirt roads. Looks like I'll also need x7 new tires (thinking about Discoverer AT3's). The BFG's wore out in just 35K miles. Also just ordered some factory Ford fuel filters from dieselfiltersonline.com at a super price. Dealer wanted $200, and I got them for less than $50. They are easy to replace. Dealer says all of Colorado is considered severe service, and I should change them every 10K. I have not looked in the manual to confirm if this is another dealer exaggeration.

 

bear in mind I make no money from what I suggesting. I dont gety paid anything for FTE or Ford or my dealer.
Change your fuel filters every 10k. If we learned a single thing from a 6.4 that would be it.
My 6.0 sees new filters every 6k. see oil once a month or every 3k what ever comes first.

 

I appreciate the input from you and other tech's here and I know others agree.

I changed the Shell station I use when I'm home (most fills) because of how my DFCM filter looked at 15k.
If it has similar crap on it after this "experiment" at 30k, I'll take this advice.

With your experience cheezit, should we be keeping our previous filters in case of a failure (for proof) or is that pointless?