The rear in my 96 F150 is getting noisey. I've got it isolated to the right rear axle bearing which has been replaced before. Down time is a problem for me so I would rather swap the whole unit. I have a good used one from an 87-91 truck. Not sure of the exact year. Does anyone know for sure what years will fit? Thanks.

 

Your truck has the speed sensor in the rear axle housing, so the replacement axle has to have it as well for the speedo and trans for sure if it an auto. Also if you truck is 4X4 the gear ratio has to be the same as the front axle in your 96.

 

The rear axle was unchanged throughout this series so this is a direct swap as long as the gear ratios match. There is a possibility the RABS/VSS sensors are different or have a different connectors.. considering the number of years between these two and Ford's propensity for changing wiring, but if that is the case the sensor itself is easy to swap.

 

I didn't think the trucks with cable driven speedos had any sensor, I didn't think about the fact that it might have it for the rabs but still like said above it is a direct swap if all that matches up.

 

Not sure about you fellas, but I think it would be much easier to simply replace axle bearings than swap out a whole rear end. Why not just do that? Then you have the added security of knowing you have new axle bearings too.
1. Support rear axle with two jackstands.
2. Remove rear wheels and drums.
3. Remove the 10 bolts holding the rear cover on with 1/2" socket and drain the oil.
4. Remove the bolt that holds the side gear pin in place using an 8mm or 5/16" wrench (it will probably be pretty tight). Remove the pin.
5. Gently push inward on the outside end of the axle to reveal the C-clip.
6. Remove the C-clip.
7. Slide the axle out. Inspect the surface where the bearing rides. Replace axle if it is gouged, pitted or gauled.
8. Remove the outer axle seal.
9. Repeat for other side.
10. Remove the differential main bearing caps, note which side each cap goes to.
11. Remove the differential. Be careful, they're heavy and may be a bit stuck in place.
12. Remove the axle bearing. A slide hammer threaded into a plug thats inside the axle housing but on the inner side of the bearing works well.
13. Using a brass driver, install the new axle bearings into the end of the axle housing. Make sure they are driven all the way in and square.
14. Reinstall differential. Torque the main caps to spec (sorry don't have that # on hand, want to say 76 ft. lbs. but really not sure).
15. Install new outer axle seals. Wipe a little grease or gear oil on the ID of the seal.
16. Reintall axles and C-clips.
17. Reintall the side gear pin and the holding bolt.
18. Make sure housing and cover are clean, I like Permatex Ultra Gray silicone on the housing then put cover back on. Don't go crazy with tightening the cover bolts.
19. Fill housing through fill hole on driver's side front of housing.
20. Reinstall wheels/tires and lower vehicle.

I've never actaully replaced an axle bearing, just every other bearing in the rear end, so the only part I've never done myself is using the slide hammer to remove the axle bearings. Anyway, just seems easier to me than replacing the whole housing, and if it isn't for you, do what you need to.

Seems odd that the bearing would be bad again though, unless you have a ton of miles on the truck, frequently haul too much in the bed, or the bearing surface on the axle shaft is scored and should have been replaced with the last bearing.

Good Luck!

 

When the axle bearing failed the first time I installed the updated version which is a unitized bearing/seal assembly. The truck has 175,000 on it and I'm not afraid to use it. The rear I have is the same ratio and has around 80,000 miles on it. The lube is clean without any shavings in it. With down time an issue and I'm using borrowed garage space I think it's quicker to swap it verses rebuild it.

Thanks for the help everyone.