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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Am I missing something here???

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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 08:13 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Jetcopterpilot
Yes you can drop the hose over it , but then you are advanced a bit at initial set, and what happens if it comes loose? Never been fond of that mod as you never know exactly what degree you have! The spring kit is the Mr Gasket 925D it replaces both springs with a matched set of lighter springs. I have a link to get it at Summit cheap!

Mr. Gasket 925D - Mr. Gasket Advance Curve Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

That should help you out! My distributor actually had two different springs in it one very heavy one, and one stock one! When I first installed it I had a heck of a time getting it to come down to the same idle point each time after throttling. switching to a matched lighter set solved that issue.. My Guess is one weight was not retracting the same as the other. You can also bend the outer tabs in towards the shaft just a bit, but make sure you have a bit of tension on the springs.
Thanks for the link! I've been doing some reading and some folks leave the heavy spring in and just replace the soft one with a Mr. Gasket spring. Others use both Mr. Gasket springs. I could weld the 13L slot and file it to a 10L. The hose trick seems simple and I could silicone the hose on. Decisions, decisions....
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 09:09 PM
  #47  
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The heavy and light spring combo was causing mine to have the idle issues, it is much better idle quality and quicker accelerating with the matched springs , but it is a matter of what works best on your rig.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 09:27 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Jetcopterpilot
The heavy and light spring combo was causing mine to have the idle issues, it is much better idle quality and quicker accelerating with the matched springs , but it is a matter of what works best on your rig.
My idol does the same thing. Idles down one time and idles high the next. Checked throttle cable and carb linkage. How the heck do I get the rotor shaft out of the dizzy? I want to pull the cam out to weld up the 13L slot. I found a clip inside the shaft under where the rotor snaps on. I removed it and still can't pull the shaft up off the cam???
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 09:44 PM
  #49  
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
Remove the gear off the bottom, and then you can pull the whole shaft out through the top, as I recall, I think there was a clip too! It has been a while!
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 11:02 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Jetcopterpilot
Remove the gear off the bottom, and then you can pull the whole shaft out through the top, as I recall, I think there was a clip too! It has been a while!
Holy crap what a job! I got the cam off and will weld her up tomorrow. This thread should be a sticky. I learned alot here.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 11:04 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by dsrtjeeper
Holy crap what a job! I got the cam off and will weld her up tomorrow. This thread should be a sticky. I learned alot here.

That is awesome we all should keep learning, it keeps us alive! Knowledge is power!
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 11:07 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Jetcopterpilot
That is awesome we all should keep learning, it keeps us alive! Knowledge is power!
A-men to that. Will post more pics tomorrow.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 11:08 PM
  #53  
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sounds good!
 
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 09:14 PM
  #54  
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Well completed distributor recurve today. I ended up with 12* initial, 36* total mechanical advance and adjusted vacuum advance to add another 10*. Total timing with vacuum advanced hooked up is 46*. Timing is all in by 2200rpm. Not sure if timing coming in that soon is good or not but the truck runs smooth with no pinging. I will eventually weld up the cam a bit more to try more initial timing. Below are some pics:



 
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 09:31 PM
  #55  
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
Originally Posted by dsrtjeeper
Well completed distributor recurve today. I ended up with 12* initial, 36* total mechanical advance and adjusted vacuum advance to add another 10*. Total timing with vacuum advanced hooked up is 46*. Timing is all in by 2200rpm. Not sure if timing coming in that soon is good or not but the truck runs smooth with no pinging. I will eventually weld up the cam a bit more to try more initial timing. Below are some pics:




Awesome.. yeah the power delivery when set up like that is smooth and torky! The throttle has a nice solid feel! AKA--> instant response
 
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 09:39 PM
  #56  
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It's very smooth and idles much better also. It's still no ball of fire off the line but my Edelbrock is running very rich. I have the parts to rejet it but that's for another day. I'd like to aim for higher initial timing as well. The weld isn't very pretty on the cam but it's hard to make a tack weld look good.
 
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