Ok made the mistake and bought a 04 6.0, it was cheap. In the middle of the day it will quit running if i let it idle for more then a few minutes. It has done it twice along with not starting when it does this. it did it this afternoon for the 2nd time in 2 days. We got a water hose and squirted the motor down and it weakly fired up got down the road and shut it off and it took another 20 min to start up. I have searched on here and there are a lot of things on no start but not on the dying while running. Am fixing to clean the egr valve. I'm just glad i kept my 96 7.3 till i put a 5.9 in this 04..

 

man why would you spray the moter down with a water hose theres so many electronics anymore expecialy since you maybe having electrical problems

 

First thing I'd do is check for codes and go from there.

 

first it beats sitting in the sun waiting to see if it will run, second if its an electrical issue and doing it in 98 degree dry heat water aint gonna matter and if this truck and motor cant handle water then it aint worth a darn.. its not throwing any codes. dont need critisism or half hearted guess i can get that anywhere. Would like some real answers or something better then what has been giving. this isnt my first diesel but my first 6.0 and i;m all ready wondering if i made a mistake..

 

I know this is not any help, but ..........

You buy a used truck for cheap and then expect it to not have problems???? That probably doesn't have anything to do w/ being a 6.0L - lol.

Now to the help, we need to know some things, you can't expect to troubleshoot an engine dying on any vehicle without methodical investigation:

Is it a early model 04 or late model?
Did you see if there were any codes (DTC's)?
Did you change the oil after you bought it? If so, what oil did you use (and what filters)?
Did you change both fuel filters after you bought it? If so, what filters?
Any modifications?
Why did you squirt it down w/ water?
Was the engine hot when you did this?
You haven't mentioned any troubleshooting to speak of.
Have you verified that the batteries are healthy (CHARGE THEM AND THEN INDIVIDUALLY LOAD TEST THEM)
Have you checked FICM voltage?

EDIT - I see where you posted that you checked for codes and didn't have any. What did you check with (or where did you have it checked)?

 

Lots of people wash their engines. It is usually wise to cover up some things first though (alternator, PCM, FICM, fuse and relay boxes, batteries, starter). Unless you have some "wire chaffing" going on, the water wouldn't hurt anything., etc.

Wire chaffing IS common on 03's and 04's though.

 

No i know trouble is expected with used but in less then 24 hrs come on. Got a 96 i bought used and it runs like a charm..Checked with a bd tripple dog no dtc's, 01/04 mfg date, did before and after oil and filter change, oil change place did the changeput in10-30 diesel oil and i used napa gold fuel filters, no modsit was a guess on thinking that heat had to do with the shut down no start issue..it was at operating temp. havent tried trouble shooting other then research since apparently if you sneeze wrong in these trucks the motor refuses to start so was trying to narrow it down. New interstate batteries and the truck had been running for about 1 hr before and sat for 45 min at oil place then ran for maybe 20 min before it died. No have not checked do to the fact wasnt sure if that issue was do to any heat. If i have to run genuine ford filters and oil in this truck i have a 04 350 cc4x4 drw for sale cuz i aint gonna get raped to drive this thing.. Best i can figure is that it has something to do with sitting an idling since the dying issue has been done when it has idled for like 10 min or so. the no start is after the dying issue..If you cant idle it whats the point of running a diesel, my inlines had no idle issue and they would idle for hrs on end along with 2 dm motors and no issues..

 

Sounds like you need to sell it.

 

I agree. At least it'll have a washed down motor.

 

yea that or put a good motor in it.. Figued i would give ford a try just glad i kept my 96 7.3 as a back up truck.. Oh thanks for the helpfull answers, now i know better to help any body with a ford..

 

You get out of life what you put into life ................

Most of us regulars here have great running trucks and we help others freely. On the other hand, there isn't much incentive to give much time to someone who "pops in here" and starts off by saying they are all junk, based on buying one used truck (and doesn't like the advice of using OEM filters, minimal idling, proper oil, etc).

 

If you cannot listen to advice with using genuine replacement filters because you think your getting raped, then it's best to sell it and move on. Ford did make superduty's with wonderful gas engines, maybe thats a option for you.

 

gas ford thats like buying a gas dodge. My point is if you have to spend twice as much at the dealer to get a truck to stay running whats the point. Never proclaimed to be a 6.0 expert or basher . Have had several cr motros and say just as many things about them. Sorry that i am expecting something to work with out having to baby it all the time.. But you bismic have basically been the only one that has given any helpful advice and i apreciate it, but theres not a single motor out there that is a god send in diesel world since they turned electric. I'm just frustrated with it and am getting tired of the "helpful' answers that i have been getting.it has been a 2 owner truck and had been serviced every 3 to 6k

 

If you do some searching on this forum you will find genuine filters and replacement parts at a substantial savings over Ford dealer prices.

 

The 6.0L was Ford's first adventure into diesel EGR systems. A lot of learning took place. I blame the government for the requirements, not Ford for their attempts to make it work. IMO, it can work very reliably now (since many issues have been worked out), and I don't plan on deleting mine. Many people do, just to have more reliability and flexibility. If you have an EGR system, I wouldn't be idling very much - JMHO. Ford's latest flash should keep the EGR valve closed during idling, but I wouldn't count on it. If you just have to idle (for whatever reason), install the high idle mod and get the temps up.

As I said on the other post - dieselfiltersonline,com for the right filters at a great price. You can also get FRAM filters. The FRAM oil filters are the Racor made ones, and a Fram executive posted up awhile back and said the fuel filters are also Racor. You have plenty of legitmate options.

If the previous owner ran the BullyDog, it may have caused issues. If that is just what you used to read codes, then I don't believe it will pick up ALL codes. I would get codes read at Autozone (and even theirs doesn't read them all).

Personally I would never hose down an engine at operating temperature, but what is done is done.

Another "personal preference" - I wouldn't run a cheap 10W30 diesel oil. I know the Motorcraft 10W30 is well thought of, but who knows about what a quick-change place uses. I have read MANY stories about those places not putting in the right oil, putting in too little or too much, etc. Puttting in good oil is expensive and most say change it PRIOR to the 7500 max interval that Ford recommneds. I highly suggest 5k miles, but I know that costs money. I also prefer 5W40 oil - and I know that costs even more money. That is why I started with the "sell it" talk. To have the best shot at a reliable truck, you need to do a few thngs "special" with it. Change the oil and filter yourself, and use the right stuff. If that is just too much to bear, then it is best to part with it now IMO.

Pulling the EGR valve is also a good thing to do if you truly have no codes. It can tell you a few thngs by how it looks (sooty, wet, torn o-rings, etc. As I mentioned before, look for wire chaffing. Since you have a late model 04, your ICP sensor is on the passenger valve cover.

I would start reading up on verifying FICM voltage and ICP readings (HPO system pressure). I would also start thinking about getting a fuel pressure gauge and preparing to install the upgraded fuel pressure regulator spring.

If all of that means to you that you are (as you put it) getting raped with this vehicle, then I say again - SELL IT.