Brake recommendations
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 544
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Brake recommendations
Well, I'm less than satisfied with my stock brake performance. I recently put on new rear pads and rotors, and had the front taken apart and lubricated and made sure all was operating properly. Had the occasion to try to put the brake pedal through the floor. Stopped in time, but I wouldn't have had to stand on it in other vehicles I have had, and I wasn't even towing anything. My opinion of it is if I stand on my brakes, I should have my seat cleaned off for me. Not so in this one. Had a few papers slide off, but everything else stayed put. Didn't even try to lock up. I've activated ABS on other cars before, so I know what it feels like. Didn't happen here.
Not sure if I'm just not getting the available performance out of stock cause something's out of whack, or what, but it's got me thinking about bigger better aftermarket brakes. Anybody got any recommendations for good aftermarkets? Or maybe something I can do to get the stockers workin' better? They are all fresh pads and rotors, well lubed, apparently working properly, I have full fluid, and the pedal does not feel spongy at all. They just seem to be underpowered for me.
Not sure if I'm just not getting the available performance out of stock cause something's out of whack, or what, but it's got me thinking about bigger better aftermarket brakes. Anybody got any recommendations for good aftermarkets? Or maybe something I can do to get the stockers workin' better? They are all fresh pads and rotors, well lubed, apparently working properly, I have full fluid, and the pedal does not feel spongy at all. They just seem to be underpowered for me.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 52
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From: San Diego, CA
Wish I could disagree but I can't, I have a 2008 v10 crew cab 4x4 and its the worst stopping vehicle I have ever driven. I love everything about the truck except the brakes-anyone know of a big brake kit or had any luck with different rotors/pad setups other than stock?
You Keep What You Kill
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,902
Likes: 2
From: Huntersville, NC
There are some good threads out there regarding upgraded braking systems or parts. Here are a few:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...nt-stop-2.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-upgrades.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ew-rotors.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...nt-stop-2.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-upgrades.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ew-rotors.html
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 544
Likes: 2
From: Jersey Shore Not Seaside!
First thing – It takes a while for brake material and rotors to burnish in for best performance. And if you are a person who typically runs light, sometimes you need to get some heat into the braking activity to fully carbonize the very thin interface layer. This can be done with no more then 5 stops from no more then 50 mph to 5 mph every 1/2 mile. No more then this as you trying not to burn up the rubber components.
Next, hydroboost vs vacuum boost of a gas powered vehicle differences. The vacuum boost system has a lower hydraulic pressure output vs pedal effort, so you are at a disadvantage. Nothing can be done about this.
The ’99-’04 vehicles use a OE friction material that’s at the low scale for effectiveness. It does get more effective when the normal braking operation is hotter like carrying commercial weights as a normal activity. But if your not doing that then an occasional awakening using paragraph one will help.
If the vehicle is using any tires larger then stock, even like 285 vs 265, braking leverage is diminished and so will wheel lock capability, especially if your running light load.
One of the best things you can do for a ’99-04 is to switch to an aftermarket pad that is higher in friction. Performance Friction “Z” pads is what I use, but other pads work well too, even the aftermarket Motorcraft from the Ford dealer.
Next, hydroboost vs vacuum boost of a gas powered vehicle differences. The vacuum boost system has a lower hydraulic pressure output vs pedal effort, so you are at a disadvantage. Nothing can be done about this.
The ’99-’04 vehicles use a OE friction material that’s at the low scale for effectiveness. It does get more effective when the normal braking operation is hotter like carrying commercial weights as a normal activity. But if your not doing that then an occasional awakening using paragraph one will help.
If the vehicle is using any tires larger then stock, even like 285 vs 265, braking leverage is diminished and so will wheel lock capability, especially if your running light load.
One of the best things you can do for a ’99-04 is to switch to an aftermarket pad that is higher in friction. Performance Friction “Z” pads is what I use, but other pads work well too, even the aftermarket Motorcraft from the Ford dealer.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2010
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Likes: 2
Thanks. I've definitely gotten the pads well set on the rotors. It's been over a month since I did the rears and a few weeks since I had the fronts taken apart and greased up. The fronts are at least 15k miles along since they were on there when I got the truck. Maybe I just need to switch to better pads. I went with the middle grade pads when I did my rears.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 544
Likes: 2
From: Jersey Shore Not Seaside!
Friction level does not follow the quality level. The only way for a consumer to get any indication of friction is by the edge code on the pad, which will have a cold / hot rating of something like: EE; EF, FF, FE, etc. The farther into the alphabet the higher the friction, although you can have a high "E" that is indistinguishable from a low "F".
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