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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Replace motor mounts

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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 04:51 PM
  #1  
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TND
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From: MN
Replace motor mounts

Hi I wanted to replace my motor mounts this weekend because I think one is broken loose.

Someone said to jack up the engine with a piece of wood and a hydraulic jack. Does anyone have some basic instructions on how to do this? I think I saw this done with a bottle jack before in some picture. Would I be able to use a floor jack? The only bottle jack I have was the one for flats.

I guess I'm worried that the floor jack would bend/dent the oil pan if I tied to support the engine that way.

Thanks!
 
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 05:03 PM
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Bear108
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If u can spin a wrench ok, it is an easy task. First, unbolt the two bolts on the tranny cradle. So the tranny will lift with the engine when u jack it up. Next, u can unbolt motor mount bolts. Two bolts from mount to motor and one bolt from mount to frame or engine cradle. Then put a piece of wood on a flat spot of oil pan or on a part of motor that can lift motor with no damage. Jack up the wood piece to lift motor and tranny. Lift it just high enough to pull mounts out and then replace. Oh!!!! I forgot a very very important part! Take the few bolts out, that bolt fan shroud or fan will hit shroud and break. As u jack up motor and tranny, they are bolted together, so they will lift as one, just take a look around and make sure nothing will interfere or be in the way. That is pretty much it. I always put some never seize on bolts threads in case u need to pull apart again. I also am a big fan of replacing both mounts, even if one is bad. The other possible may not be in the best of shape. Good luck.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 09:21 AM
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CS45
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From: SWFL
I had mine done when I installed my new exhaust. They were RIVITED to the frame and had to be power chizelled off. Glad that I had the exhaust guy do it.

CS45
 
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 08:38 AM
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Well I was looking at it some before starting, soaking it in PB. I think that the driver side mount was just loose when it attaches to the frame. Its a washer nut and I think I can see where the washer was leaving grooves from sliding up the metal. I tried to just tighten it down but stripped the nut some. I was able to get it off but the new mount didnt come with a new washer nut. Its hard as heck to find a class10 washer. I got a class 8 (metric scale, is a grade 5 standard I think) but it just bent when I torqued it down haha.

The mount itself has two 16mm hex bolts holding it to the engine. One bolt is right next to the oil filter and it looks like I will have to remove the filter since I dont have anything that can reach it from below. Trust me, its too tight from below.

So since I think it was just loose I gotta find a place to get a M12-1.75 class 10 hex nut and washer. Looks like fastenall has them, but they wont be open till monday. Anyone else find a good place to get class 10/10.9 stuff? I don't think that getting them from Ford Parts at a local dealer is a very good idea as far as cost goes.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 10:42 AM
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MEDF150
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From: Kamloops BC
I'm very interested in how you get the forward bolts of the mount undone from the block as well. There just doesn't seem to be any room from below to do it. It seems like a pretty awkward reach from above as well. I was just trying to change my mounts a couple of weeks ago and didn't get too far.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 05:43 PM
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fordrulez
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From: Winfield TN
I did this a few months back on my 95 5.0 4x4 had too use a long extension and got it from bottom also raised up the motor as much as possible when loosened the mount to frame nuts good luck
 
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 01:02 PM
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Bear108
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I don't have the exact same truck as u, so I can't look at mine and give u advice. You just gonna try a bunch of different tool set ups, to get nuts or bolts of. Different length sockets, swivel sockets, swivels, extentions or maybe a wrench and possibly I pipe on it. When u do finally get things loose, make sure u put some type of never seize on bolt threads. Let us know how u make out.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 09:09 PM
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TND
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Thanks, Bear. That's pretty much what it took: whatever fits. I used a socket on a short extension and used a breaker bar that had a rotating tip. I ended up having the bar beneath the oil pan when I had my best grip with the bar at about 45 degrees below being level with the ground.

Well once I got the bolts loose (the front one was looser than the rear, making me think someone replaced it once already) I went to loosen the transmission mount... The tranny mount was snapped and the top section was resting on the cross member. I got a new tranny mount coming tomorrow. Hopefully it will be the last of the noise I get when taking off when I get the new one on.
 
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