riffraffs ebpv delete
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 476
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From: Bellingham, WA
riffraffs ebpv delete
i have been thinkin about truly doing the ebpv delete and getting the blank pedastal from clay at riffraff, it seems like a very fair price! my question is: is there other things i should do well i am there with the turbo off, need it or not i would almost rather replace something well i am there then go back in later on.. there is a common problem leak wise back there right? i can't remember right now what it is, any thought on what to do/what you would do well you are there would be appreciated..
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Bellingham, WA
I've gutted the exhaust side already, I just wanna get rid of the oil leak potential.. so just the o-rings is the only thing I should do well the turbo is off..? Nothing else to check and or replace in a preventive measure..? I'm going to see if clay has the o-rings right now.
Thanks
Thanks
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Joined: Feb 2009
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I've gutted the exhaust side already, I just wanna get rid of the oil leak potential.. so just the o-rings is the only thing I should do well the turbo is off..? Nothing else to check and or replace in a preventive measure..? I'm going to see if clay has the o-rings right now.
Thanks
Thanks
O-rings are listed under the related items at the bottom of the product page.
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Joined: Feb 2010
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Question....if you decide to weld the pedestal ...do you have to weld the hole where the rod comes out and the other larger end where the snap ring and cover plug are ? I saw one video where the guy tapped the rod hole for 1/4" pipe threads, put in a plug, then re-installed the large plug and snap ring on the other end... also have seen the large end cut off at an angle and welded shut along with the small rod hole..either way..no problem (am a heliarc welder by trade)...do aluminum pressure work daily...just want to know what works best...
Also when you drop out the butterfly from the turbo outlet (just ground out the 2 rivets & removed it and the shaft....is all I need to do to complete this operation is install a 3/4" freeze plug in the one side to seal it up.. I noticed there is a small snap ring/split ring on the outside of the bushing..I assumed that it can be removed too...
Also when you drop out the butterfly from the turbo outlet (just ground out the 2 rivets & removed it and the shaft....is all I need to do to complete this operation is install a 3/4" freeze plug in the one side to seal it up.. I noticed there is a small snap ring/split ring on the outside of the bushing..I assumed that it can be removed too...
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
To answer your first question, the reason you remove the cylinder is for flow purposes, as well as for access to removing and installing the pedestal.
To answer your second question. I have no clue about any snap rings on the exhaust outlet for the EBPV.
here is a picture of my welded pedestal.
I know its different, cause it came on the 94's that way. =)
To answer your second question. I have no clue about any snap rings on the exhaust outlet for the EBPV.
here is a picture of my welded pedestal.
I know its different, cause it came on the 94's that way. =)
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 903
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From: melbourne beach, fl
Def weld the hole where the rod unthreads from,and cut about 2/3 of the aluminum circle flush with the base then weld up thos small holes thus making a completely sealed sytem.The snap ring and piston gets tossed out then.
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Joined: Feb 2010
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so I should basically cut the whole cylinder casing back....and weld it shut... how bout the area with the solenoid rod...was wondering how it comes off..I pulled the nut and slid the unit with the 2 wires & plug off, but the "bolt" doesn't want to come out...I see the is a very small freeze plug on the side of the housing below the rod....
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
so I should basically cut the whole cylinder casing back....and weld it shut... how bout the area with the solenoid rod...was wondering how it comes off..I pulled the nut and slid the unit with the 2 wires & plug off, but the "bolt" doesn't want to come out...I see the is a very small freeze plug on the side of the housing below the rod....
with the newer style ones, the actuator is different than mine.
I belive a lot of guys just leave them in or cut it and weld it.
if you use some vice grips and some heat you should be able to get it out though.
here is another picture from mine after I cut and polished it.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2010
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that freeze plug is from the machining processes, dont touch it.
with the newer style ones, the actuator is different than mine.
I belive a lot of guys just leave them in or cut it and weld it.
if you use some vice grips and some heat you should be able to get it out though.
here is another picture from mine after I cut and polished it.
with the newer style ones, the actuator is different than mine.
I belive a lot of guys just leave them in or cut it and weld it.
if you use some vice grips and some heat you should be able to get it out though.
here is another picture from mine after I cut and polished it.
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 33
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From: U.P. Michigan
I bought the pedestal from Riffraff. Made by Garrett. Nice piece. I rebuilt the turbo while I was at it. It's a lot easier to get the bolts on the pedestal back on with the new one!! Turbo is easy to rebuild. $100 for the parts.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
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From: Ashland City, TN
yea, you can get the rebuild kit from clay also.
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