Intake Manifold gasket
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Intake Manifold gasket
77 Ranchero 400 - bought a weiand intake - bought the fel pro valley pan & intake gasket (metal) (all one piece). I only put RTV on the two ends - paying attention to the 4 corners. Put it together and it leaks in the back. Spent another 30 bucks - cleaned everything up - installed same way and it leaks again in the back by the oil pressure switch. Is there a trick to this or what.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 427
Likes: 1
From: Irondale, Al.
77 Ranchero 400 - bought a weiand intake - bought the fel pro valley pan & intake gasket (metal) (all one piece). I only put RTV on the two ends - paying attention to the 4 corners. Put it together and it leaks in the back. Spent another 30 bucks - cleaned everything up - installed same way and it leaks again in the back by the oil pressure switch. Is there a trick to this or what.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 227
Likes: 1
Had the same problem .... do not use the 2 rubber ends.
I solved the problem by laying a thick bead of RTV on both sides block and intake, waited 15 min. until you can touch the surface of the bead, then fit together.
Be sure to have enough RTV on the 4 corners to manifolds, it may ooze a bit out there while fitting.
I solved the problem by laying a thick bead of RTV on both sides block and intake, waited 15 min. until you can touch the surface of the bead, then fit together.
Be sure to have enough RTV on the 4 corners to manifolds, it may ooze a bit out there while fitting.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 831
Likes: 1
From: Tanilba bay NSW Australia
funny you say that about the rubber ends. I rebuilt my 400 last year and The rebuild manual I was using (tom munroes excellent one) suggested to only use the cork not the rubber. WELL I knew better, and I did use the rubber and it leaked as they had split. I had another drama with a head gasket pretty much straight away so when I replaced the manifold I used the cork gaskets that had come with the new set. I had to tighten the bolts a little more than standard as I had a leak at the rear but it did stop. I had a new pan gasket there to use but didnt and I dont know why as they are meant to help keep the intake somewhat cooler and I am all for that.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 153
There is nothing wrong with using the rubber end seals if you dry fit them first and measure the gap to make sure they have the right amount of crush, most of the time they fit ok. IMO up to .030 is ok, anymore than that and I use silicone.
Trending Topics
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 831
Likes: 1
From: Tanilba bay NSW Australia
That sounds logical. it is probably why the cork always works as it just keeps squeezing up and not failing if the gap isn't big enough.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
And now.....
So got it to quit leaking oil. Motor has a lope in it that it didn't have with the stock intake. Only did the intake and carb. Motor is a rebuilt with 20,000 miles on it - don't know what cam it has, but do remember they said it would be 9:1 when i got it back after the rebuild. Have played with the timing and it runs good - just not sure about the timing. Have an actual 1977 Chiltons and 1978 Chiltons. 77 Chilton says 6 btdc. 78 one says to check engine decal due to changing production, but the decal on the engine compartment is long gone and interestingly the 78 has the timing for that year at 14 btdc - any idea where i should be with this and could the lope just be because of the intake? Currently have it set at 8 btdc
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 427
Likes: 1
From: Irondale, Al.
So got it to quit leaking oil. Motor has a lope in it that it didn't have with the stock intake. Only did the intake and carb. Motor is a rebuilt with 20,000 miles on it - don't know what cam it has, but do remember they said it would be 9:1 when i got it back after the rebuild. Have played with the timing and it runs good - just not sure about the timing. Have an actual 1977 Chiltons and 1978 Chiltons. 77 Chilton says 6 btdc. 78 one says to check engine decal due to changing production, but the decal on the engine compartment is long gone and interestingly the 78 has the timing for that year at 14 btdc - any idea where i should be with this and could the lope just be because of the intake? Currently have it set at 8 btdc
I hope this gets you going in the right direction.
thanks for the info
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 831
Likes: 1
From: Tanilba bay NSW Australia
Ditto on the trial and error. A rule of thumb given to me was that if it starts easy and no pinging you're pretty close so if it does every thing you want is it too bad? A couple of guys I've asked for advice don't even use the timing light and haven't for years. Now i've played with my 400 a bit and I can get it running easy as long as I set the base timing before start to 10deg BTDC.
I've tried advancing the timing while running until the revs stop increasing and backed off a little, I always found it wouldn't start and kicked back against the starter so that idea definitely didn't fly (that was meant to be for power and max advance) and I would always wind back the timing until it started ok and take it for a drive to check for pinging. It went well when running though. Just make sure the vac line to the distributor is disconnected (and plugged) if adjusting using the timing light.
I've tried advancing the timing while running until the revs stop increasing and backed off a little, I always found it wouldn't start and kicked back against the starter so that idea definitely didn't fly (that was meant to be for power and max advance) and I would always wind back the timing until it started ok and take it for a drive to check for pinging. It went well when running though. Just make sure the vac line to the distributor is disconnected (and plugged) if adjusting using the timing light.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 831
Likes: 1
From: Tanilba bay NSW Australia
I busted a tab on my distributor cap trying to move it one day. If I got it to lift a little it could be rotated ok, but once the clamp was done up for operation it locked solid again. After I rebuilt the engine for some reason it stopped doing that. Maybe I took a burr off somewhere I can't remember
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Brad's 73
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
Jan 27, 2016 06:41 PM
cityjack
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
Jan 3, 2016 09:20 AM
78oldsmokey
335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland
3
Nov 23, 2005 07:26 PM
boris
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Jan 16, 2003 05:55 AM
