Here is a problem that has me stumped. A neighbor of mine asked for help fixing his 94 2wd Ranger, saying it was hard to shift into gear. I assumed it was a bad clutch, but it wasnt until I took it for a drive that I really started getting confused...

The hydraulic clutch has plenty of pressure, and I can see the throwout bearing functioning properly through the access hole in the bellhousing. I figured maybe it was a problem with a worn clutch disk or possibly shift linkage... So I started the truck in neutral, pushed in the clutch, and expected to grind the gears- but it shifts into all gears just fine. This would rule out a worn clutch disk.

I went to put it into reverse, started backing up to put it in the garage, and as soon as I pressed in the clutch the rear wheels lock up. I was able to repeat this everytime with the same results... Driving backward in reverse gear at any speed it goes just fine, then as soon as the clutch is depressed, wheels lock up.

At first I cleverly thought I had the solution. Of course it would be the self-adjusters for the brake shoes in the rear axle. In reverse it could overpower the shoes, but they must be stuck on so as soon as the engine power is taken away by the clutch, the wheels lock up. Feeling proud of myself I jacked up the rear axle, put the truck in neutral, and started turning the wheels in reverse expecting them to be locked up. Nope! They move clean as can be.

I lowered the truck, started the truck and began repeating the same process... truck drives fine in reverse, push in clutch, locked wheels. Then I moved to a slight hill, went downhill in reverse, pushed in clutch, came to a stop on hill... shifted into neutral and continued to roll backwards downhill just fine. So it free-rolls downhill backwards just fine. It drives in reverse backwards down a hill just fine. But with the clutch in, the transmission in reverse, it stays stuck like the brakes are on... How in the world could this be??

Hope someone has had a problem like this before that they can shed some light on the situation. Thanks for looking!
Ced

 

Sounds like it has an internal transmission issue. Does it shift thru the forward gears ok when driving? Any odd/unusual sounds or actions in any forward gear?

 

I'm sure the emergency brakes are not on?

 

Im thinking it must be an internal transmission issue too... But as you mention, I would expect it to give out quite a few more warning signs while under power. There doesn't seem to be any unusual sounds while it is in gear and driving, and it seems to shift through the forward gears fine while driving. It is hard to get it into 2nd unless you get the RPMs right, pointing to a syncro-issue in 2nd, but Ive had similar syncro-problems like that in other ford manual transmissions, and it has never led to symptoms like this before.

This morning I could hear the rear wheels trying to lock up as i coasted forward, in first gear, with the clutch in, again pointing to a brake shoe issue... I also noticed that someone has decided it would be a good idea to cut the emergency brake cables. So although I know the brake is not applied, theres a chance that it is flopping around just right to apply the brakes while Im in gear with the clutch pressed in, but I guess its time for an actual inspection of the shoes instead of just a spinning of tires on the jack haha

Thanks for the thoughts... keep any ideas coming

 

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

put the rear axle up on jackstand so the rear tires dont contact and try it in fwd & reverse. sounds like something internal in the trans. never heard of anything like that.

 

Freely rolling backwards in nuetral, but not in reverse, even with clutch depressed, leads me to believe it's a transmission issue. Seems to me if it were a brake issue, it wouldn't matter if the trans was in gear or not.......

 

The reason I said E-brakes is because they are designed to work holding the truck going forward not in reverse as good. He said he had the truck on a decline when doing the test in reverse. Just taking a jab at this. lol

 

Well thanks for the ideas everyone... I pulled off the rear hubs, with both wheels off the ground at the same time. Both hubs came off easy, pads look a little worn, but all the springs and wheel cylinders look brand new. Definitely not a brake issue.

I took it for a longer drive today and got a little grinding noise as I was going into third which was new. As the clutch seems to be working fine, Im suspecting its inside the transmission... but I will make sure to inspect the shift linkage and clutch in the process. Next step of the battle is to dive right in!

I will let you know what I come up with, but at least weve got a possible new list of symptoms for transmission failure haha

 

Wish i would have gotten here sooner. I have seen this twice, from two different problems.

The first that came to mine was on my 98 ranger when the reverse idler gear went out, it gave the same results. I messed up and kept driving as i needed the truck and destroyed the entire tranny, if i would have figured it out and not driven it was only a couple dollar part.
The second time this happened was on my diesel. The yoke on the rear diff came loose. After i got moving and then pressed in the clutch the rear wheels would look. The pinion was able to slid back just far enough when there was no load on it and make contact with the carrier. Glad i didn't try and drive this one. Was able to fix it with just a new yoke and cleaning out the diff.
Hope this helps if you have not found the problem already.

 

Thanks Jayme, you were just on time! I have been lacking on this project - holiday weekend donchya know. Thats great news that I'm not alone in this problem. From your explanation, Im willing to bet its the yoke on the rear diff. Although tranny failure is still on the list, the way the rear wheels are locking up, it seems like whatever is catching is happening in the rear end. Especially when I started to feel it at low speeds in first too.

I will make sure to look at the yoke as soon as I drop the driveshaft. Wouldn't that be nice if I didnt have to drop that transmission!

Thanks for the ideas
Ced

 

I would also pull the rear diff cover, let all the fluid drain and check the gears and carrier for damage. If this is the problem you will have metal chunks in your fluid that you will want to get out sooner than later.

 

I’m having identical, match for match, problem for problem, with my transmission. Is it safe to assume it’s a 90% transmission issue and 10% other as in rear end, brakes, yoke, etc..