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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 03:15 PM
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Brakes

I drove downtown this morning and on my way back home,applied the brakes at a stop sign.
The pedal had gone hard on the 1st push of the pedal.
The brake light came on,went off again and I drove the remaing 1/4 mile.
After pulling into the driveway and coming to a stop,the pedal had a little push and went hard again.
I checked the fluid,it's up,and I just replaced the pads about 2 months ago.
When I start it the brake light stays on.
Any idea as to what the problem can be?
Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 04:08 PM
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Vacuum pump or bad booster

Its been covered pretty well in the past few weeks if you search a bit. Check the belt running from the alternator to the vac pump if its V-belts. I want to say the serpentine belt puts the vac pump right at the top of the engine.. but not 100% (mines v-belts).

If the belt is good, trace the vac hoses and look for a leak. If that all tests out and its sucking a good bit of vacuum, the booster is probably shot.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 04:16 PM
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What do you mean by BOOSTER?
The TURBO?
 
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboTuff
What do you mean by BOOSTER?
The TURBO?
He is referring to the power brake booster. The big round thing between the firewall and the master cylinder.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 06:11 PM
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I checked for broken lines,air leaks,brake fluid leak,nothing!
So the Booster sits in behind the master cyl. then?
 
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 07:25 PM
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This is the booster.

On yours it will be much bigger, as this one shown was my old half ton parts truck.

 
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Old Jun 30, 2011 | 09:32 PM
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I would suspect the vacuum pump, usually when a booster is bad you hear a hissing sound when you apply the brakes. Your heater control should default to defrost if the pump is bad or their is a bad leak.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2011 | 09:52 PM
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I am Having the same issue. borrowed a vac pump to see if it helped, It did for about 4 hours then i got nothin. heater controls dont even work now but when i pull the check valve out of the booster you can hear it suck. I just dont wanna have to do the booster if i dont need to.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 12:46 PM
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Here's a pic of what the Vac. pump has a hose running too.


It's like a HOSE BAR with 1 hose going to the Vac.Pump,1 hose going to the booster.,and 1 hose going to the ROUND??? on the left,the other 2 hose connectors have plugs on them.
How can I eliminate the Vac pump?
What it the part that its connected to?
Can that be tested?


 
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 12:58 PM
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Thats not the vac pump the vac pump is below the alternator
 
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 01:13 PM
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lol I never said it was,it's what the Vac pump is connected too!then a hose goes from there to the big round brake booster on the firewall.
Anyway I disconnected the hose from the master cyl and its sucking air.
So that would eliminate the Vac pump and that AirBar or whatever it is.
What now?

Would be the brake booster or can it be the master brake cyl ?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 01:24 PM
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Put the palm of your hand on to the end of the pipe that you took off of the booster. With the engine at idle it should feel like your hand is being sucked into the pipe. If not the vacuum pump may be bad or you have a vacuum leak somewhere.
If you could connect a vacuum gauge it should read 18-20in. at idle if the pump is good and no leaks.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 01:26 PM
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Sorry man I missread the post
 
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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Thats ok !
There is suction at idle.so its not the Vac Pump or that part its connected too in the above pic.
Anyone know what it is?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 07:18 PM
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The part in the pic. above is the vaccume sensor. If you don't have vaccume it is suspose to light the brake light in the dash.
 
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