1995 E150 A/C Clutch Question !
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6th Gear
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1995 E150 A/C Clutch Question !
I have a 1995 E150 (4.9 engine)and The A/C unit isn't blowing cold enough. You do feel a little cold air but isn't strong.
I replaced the A/C compressor 3 years ago and 2 years ago the A/C pressure switch was replaced. Today, I checked to see if the compressor clutch was engaging. The clutch does engage but it goes off and on. It doesn't stay enaged.I also feel the pressure switch click when the clutch engages.
Isn't the clutch suppose to stay engaged?
Could it be the pressure switch again?
Any info would be greatly appreciated !
Thanks
Tom
I replaced the A/C compressor 3 years ago and 2 years ago the A/C pressure switch was replaced. Today, I checked to see if the compressor clutch was engaging. The clutch does engage but it goes off and on. It doesn't stay enaged.I also feel the pressure switch click when the clutch engages.
Isn't the clutch suppose to stay engaged?
Could it be the pressure switch again?
Any info would be greatly appreciated !
Thanks
Tom
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: West Texas
It's most likely low on freon. The Low pressure switches job is to protect the compressor by shutting it off when the pressure is too low. THose switches very very rarely go bad too. Also until just recently they are adjustable for the cut out pressure on Fords. I've only had to replace one or two in 20 something years of working on Fords.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2005
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It's most likely low on freon. The Low pressure switches job is to protect the compressor by shutting it off when the pressure is too low. THose switches very very rarely go bad too. Also until just recently they are adjustable for the cut out pressure on Fords. I've only had to replace one or two in 20 something years of working on Fords.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Pro Air is its own company and supports its products 100%---I used their parts when adding rear overhead heat only to my work van. I'm pretty sure a Ford part wouldn't fit into a Pro Air system---do a Google search and you're sure to find them easily enough.
Mark III simply used the Pro Air system and if sourcing parts through a Mark III dealer the price is sure to be at least double the direct cost. Sometimes replacement parts aren't always priced to our liking but in some instances there's no choice but to bite the bullet and shell out whatever it costs if we want the whatever to be back in service.
Mark III simply used the Pro Air system and if sourcing parts through a Mark III dealer the price is sure to be at least double the direct cost. Sometimes replacement parts aren't always priced to our liking but in some instances there's no choice but to bite the bullet and shell out whatever it costs if we want the whatever to be back in service.
Posting Guru
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From: West Texas
In my experience with Ford vans the rear system will not work right unless the charge is perfect in it. Especially on expansion valve systems. True thermostatic expansion valves almost never go bad either unless some major contamination has gotten in the lines. Orifice tubes are a little more forgiving. Also the majority of the leaks I have found were in the rear system somewhere. I'd do a god evac on the system. Let the pump run a good 12 hours and then recharge it properly. Get a big 30 Lb bottle and don't use the small cans. Too much air gets in with them.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
RRanch you're 1,000,000% correct on the evac-----so many DON'T do that critical step, relying on a charging manifold's weak vacuum gauge reading never realizing trapped moisture robs any A/C system of efficiency. 12 hours under constant vacuum with a new charge of oil in the vacuum pump would do wonders for many of the so-called A/C system problems we see.
Good advice!
Good advice!
Posting Guru
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From: West Texas
That's exactly why I have no respect for shops anymore. I've worked at a lo of them and all they care about is how much of your money they can part you from and how fast they can do it. There is no such thing as fast in AC work. Not if you want it done right. 12 hours has always been my minimum for any kind of AC. On some of the older systems with sight glasses you can actually see bubbles in the glass long after 12 hours. Thats non condensable gasses vaporizing out of the oil.
Most people don't even vacuum at all when they work on them. They just have no idea the difference it makes.
Most people don't even vacuum at all when they work on them. They just have no idea the difference it makes.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Most shops that even attemp A/C work typically have those automated
recovery/recharge units that give them almost no control over the evac process other than a timed period, most likely never monitoring the moisture content of the system. Perhaps it's somewhat unfortunate I once built large commercial A/C systems and we'd evac them down to .002" Hg which is just about as dry as a system can get. Of course this was acheived by highly accurate electronic measuring devices yet we used simple vacuum pumps maintained very well.
You're also correct quick isn't good for A/C work-----it helps the cash register and seems to assure repeat business!!
recovery/recharge units that give them almost no control over the evac process other than a timed period, most likely never monitoring the moisture content of the system. Perhaps it's somewhat unfortunate I once built large commercial A/C systems and we'd evac them down to .002" Hg which is just about as dry as a system can get. Of course this was acheived by highly accurate electronic measuring devices yet we used simple vacuum pumps maintained very well.
You're also correct quick isn't good for A/C work-----it helps the cash register and seems to assure repeat business!!
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: NY, NY
An addition to pulling vacuum, accumulator should be replaced. It probably weighs a ton. I found good success with products from Enviro-Safe, called Pro-dry. It attracts moisture and converts to oil. It's like $ 10 /rattle can. You probably need 2. How do I know if they work? read on
This outfit in Illinois (Enviro-Safe) also sells some sniffers, for lack of better word. They cost like $ 1.50 each, one-time use only. You stick them in the Low-side Schrader valve and it test cleanliness, oil and moisture in the system. Pitstop I think it is called.
Oh, last thing -- I stopped using 134a long ago. Only used Hydrocarbon refrigerants, which will freeze your a$$ off.
This outfit in Illinois (Enviro-Safe) also sells some sniffers, for lack of better word. They cost like $ 1.50 each, one-time use only. You stick them in the Low-side Schrader valve and it test cleanliness, oil and moisture in the system. Pitstop I think it is called.
Oh, last thing -- I stopped using 134a long ago. Only used Hydrocarbon refrigerants, which will freeze your a$$ off.
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From: NY, NY
I have used HC products from Duracool and Enviro-Safe. I especially like dealing with Enviro-Safe and their products. They basically have 2 refrigerants:
1- E-S Industrial Refr. They call it R12 Industrial, but it replaces both 134A and R12. This is the one for our dual systems.
2- 134A replacement which is more for cars (smaller AC).
You basically need 2.6 times less refrigerant than regular 134A. Head Pressures are lower, Cooling is 10-20% more efficient, if not more.
In the beginning I started with Industrial 12A (again, this replaces 134A). After a repair, I did use the 134A Replacement, which is supposed to be for cars, but it worked fine in my vans.
The interesting part is that E-S tells you to pull vacuum with the I-12A, but recommends against pulling vacuum with 134A Replacement.
Besides better performance, I found HC easier to work with, and cheaper. You can basically fill the system from zero with $ 22 (4 cans).
Check the out... Duracool®.com 2004 - Duracool® is The Recognized Leader In Hydrocarbon Refrigerant Technology, EnviroSafe Refrigerants - Environmentally Friendly Refrigerant and Automotive Fluid Products
1- E-S Industrial Refr. They call it R12 Industrial, but it replaces both 134A and R12. This is the one for our dual systems.
2- 134A replacement which is more for cars (smaller AC).
You basically need 2.6 times less refrigerant than regular 134A. Head Pressures are lower, Cooling is 10-20% more efficient, if not more.
In the beginning I started with Industrial 12A (again, this replaces 134A). After a repair, I did use the 134A Replacement, which is supposed to be for cars, but it worked fine in my vans.
The interesting part is that E-S tells you to pull vacuum with the I-12A, but recommends against pulling vacuum with 134A Replacement.
Besides better performance, I found HC easier to work with, and cheaper. You can basically fill the system from zero with $ 22 (4 cans).
Check the out... Duracool®.com 2004 - Duracool® is The Recognized Leader In Hydrocarbon Refrigerant Technology, EnviroSafe Refrigerants - Environmentally Friendly Refrigerant and Automotive Fluid Products
Posting Guru
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Can you tell me any more about the R12 replacement? I still have R12 in my kids truck and its too low to run now. I have all the parts to replace the entire system but one 80 lb bottle of R12 left and I don't want to open it. I'd rather sell it to some fool and pay off my mortgage! Is that new r12 stuff safe? It's not propane base or anything like that freeze 12 garbage is it? I need to go buy some R22 and 502 next week and I'll pick up some of that stuff if it's really safe. Especially if I can just top up the system on the r12 truck with it. I don't even mind evacuating it. It's my kids truck though and I just don't want to do any major work on it. Not the way he drives. It's not worth my time.
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From: NY, NY
I am not familiar with freeze 12. Check out the links, already on my previous post on Duracool and Enviro-Safe.
On you case, based on EPA rules, it is illegal to convert from R12 straight to Hydrocarbons. Replacing R134A with HC is however legal. Furthermore, you need to check if your own state allows it. My state (NY) allows it too.
Regarding its safety, I researched it at-nauseum and decided that 20 oz of hydrocarbons in my AC system was practically safe. Used it on both vans for several years. I also use it on my other vehicles.
On you case, based on EPA rules, it is illegal to convert from R12 straight to Hydrocarbons. Replacing R134A with HC is however legal. Furthermore, you need to check if your own state allows it. My state (NY) allows it too.
Regarding its safety, I researched it at-nauseum and decided that 20 oz of hydrocarbons in my AC system was practically safe. Used it on both vans for several years. I also use it on my other vehicles.
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