59 fuses question
#1
59 fuses question
I had gotten the truck running roughly (posted on another thread asking for advice on the 59) While trying to get the timing set properly I was running with the choke and it seemed to want to run best after TDC as the timing mark was showing up to the right of the index. At any rate, it died while I was adjusting it. I tried to start it back up and it cranked for a second and then everything died. No lights on the dash at all when I turned the key on. Is there a master/main fuse somewhere?
Sorry to be a pain, but until I make a trip to Lago Vista to pick up the manuals from my sister-in-law I'm working in the dark.
Thanks in advance.
Sorry to be a pain, but until I make a trip to Lago Vista to pick up the manuals from my sister-in-law I'm working in the dark.
Thanks in advance.
#3
Yep, looking up under the dash, I saw those. Guess I'll be pulling the dash to see if it's easier to get to. Probably won't happen until I get back from vacation though. Got too much other stuff to do in the next couple of days before taking off. Besides, it's too damn hot to be working on it out there right now.
#5
#6
On the fuses, there is no master fuse. Sometimes a bad connection at the battery (on + or -) or a loose/corroded connection on the battery side of the starter relay will do that - I have had it happen many times over the years.
Here's a tip on the fuses. If you do not like crawling under the dash to get at them, just reach up under and push the release button on the light switch and pull out the **** and stem. Then unscrew the retainer and pull the light switch down for easy access. Just takes a few minutes, and makes life easier.
Here's a tip on the fuses. If you do not like crawling under the dash to get at them, just reach up under and push the release button on the light switch and pull out the **** and stem. Then unscrew the retainer and pull the light switch down for easy access. Just takes a few minutes, and makes life easier.
#7
Carter,may I tell you what I've done?After changing to an alternator,I installed a 10-circuit, weather-proof fuse box that I got from West Marine, but I'm sure you can get one at a marine supply store near you.
After supplying power from the battery,I've used over half the available circuits.The things I've given their own individual circuits include an AM/FM/CD in the glove-box, auxiliary driving lights, headlights w/relay set-up, utility lights in the camper-shell, auxiliary defroster for winter use only, and a separate circuit for the lighter to power a phone charger/gps/whatever.
In addition to the 2 fuses on the back of the headlight switch, there is also a self-re-setting breaker that is integral to the switch itself.If you remove the switch, being careful to mark every wire for correct re-installation, you'll see a movable ceramic wheel, which is part of the headlight brightness adjustment, and is a type of rheostat.This can sometimes be blown out gently with compressed air, have some contact cleaner shot into it, and may work again.If that doesn't do the trick, a new switch is in order,less than 100.00 usually.
Be very careful to re-install the wires where they belong on their correct terminals.Ask me how I know.
Steve
After supplying power from the battery,I've used over half the available circuits.The things I've given their own individual circuits include an AM/FM/CD in the glove-box, auxiliary driving lights, headlights w/relay set-up, utility lights in the camper-shell, auxiliary defroster for winter use only, and a separate circuit for the lighter to power a phone charger/gps/whatever.
In addition to the 2 fuses on the back of the headlight switch, there is also a self-re-setting breaker that is integral to the switch itself.If you remove the switch, being careful to mark every wire for correct re-installation, you'll see a movable ceramic wheel, which is part of the headlight brightness adjustment, and is a type of rheostat.This can sometimes be blown out gently with compressed air, have some contact cleaner shot into it, and may work again.If that doesn't do the trick, a new switch is in order,less than 100.00 usually.
Be very careful to re-install the wires where they belong on their correct terminals.Ask me how I know.
Steve
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#8
#9
Ross,sorry,after re-reading the OP's post,I missed that he had no power whatsoever.I thought just the dash-lights weren't functioning.There is a main ground-strap from firewall to engine block, check that.But mainly, I would suspect the ignition switch, which can easily be tested.I just had the switch fail on me in this same manner recently,and fortunately have a well-stocked shelf of NOS parts.Both headlight and ignition switches have failed in recent months.
#10
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