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Yes..... I have had trouble with this in the past.... Most of the time I have found it was only a loose wire boot at the plug.
If you have one of those testers that you use over the wires to look for spark start there.... A lot of the time they show all the wires working. If one isn't look over the cap..... If all the wires are firing the check the connection to the plug.... Most of the time the metal end on the wire is not tight on the end of the plug....
If one of the wires I'd not working it could be bad, or the cap might be bad...
The look at the plug as the culprit.... It could be dead as well
Also if you have a sputtering miss..... Look up wiring in Duraspark.... There is an additional ground that can be made off the box the factory neglected to make which makes it work a little bit better....http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...rasparkII.html. This is the basic wiring diagram.... A ground to frame or body for the black line is an upgrade.... It's called ignition system ground on the diagram
The last thing to check is the charge of the alternator.... You can put a voltmeter on the battery posts to check it.... Or use the big lug on the alternator and the negative battery terminal.... You are looking for 14.xx...... You need a min of 12 anything less stuff like the ignition will not run correctly..... If it shows less then use the throttle to bump up the rpms and see if it increases.... Also check it after driving... New alternators need to be run a bit before they reach max output at idle.... Sometimes it's also jump over 2500 rpms....
If after all that it still doesn't go away pull the valve covers and look for a loose rocker arm....