Wandering steering, also clunking
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 373
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From: Alberta, Canada
Wandering steering, also clunking
Hey there, just about to get into my front end and have a few questions.
I have a clunking when I go over bumps on both sides of the front end of the truck, I also am trying to cure a wondering front end.
I've checked out the steering components and dont see any slop. I have bought new ball joints but with the truck in the air there is no up and down travel or in/out. Sway bar end links seem ok.
I have noticed I can grab the stub axle u joint and it moves up and down quite a bit and seems like it might be my clunking. What holds the two shafts on either side and limits the movement of the shafts?
I have a clunking when I go over bumps on both sides of the front end of the truck, I also am trying to cure a wondering front end.
I've checked out the steering components and dont see any slop. I have bought new ball joints but with the truck in the air there is no up and down travel or in/out. Sway bar end links seem ok.
I have noticed I can grab the stub axle u joint and it moves up and down quite a bit and seems like it might be my clunking. What holds the two shafts on either side and limits the movement of the shafts?
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Your "wandering" could very well be the u-joints on the end of the axles. If you go through the trouble of doing the balljoints, do the u-joints at the same time. I kinda sucks having to take it apart again a few weeks later. Don't bother asking me how I know that.
The axle is held outboard at the wheelbearing/hub by a spring clip. You will need the longest set of snap-ring pliers you can find. Mine are made by channelock and required some custom grinding on the legs to make them thin enough to work.
Inboard there is a seal close to the "pumpkin" that seals and holds the axle in the proper spot.
On the end of the axle tube is the worlds most useless seal. The axle tube dust seal. If replaced, it may last a few months, but it will eventually split and fail, leaving the hula-hoop on the axle stub.
The clunk could be the sway bar links on either end or the sway bar bushings. Check those out.
The axle is held outboard at the wheelbearing/hub by a spring clip. You will need the longest set of snap-ring pliers you can find. Mine are made by channelock and required some custom grinding on the legs to make them thin enough to work.
Inboard there is a seal close to the "pumpkin" that seals and holds the axle in the proper spot.
On the end of the axle tube is the worlds most useless seal. The axle tube dust seal. If replaced, it may last a few months, but it will eventually split and fail, leaving the hula-hoop on the axle stub.
The clunk could be the sway bar links on either end or the sway bar bushings. Check those out.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: knox Tn
My 03 wandering came new with mine and has been there ever sense, and i got it for no charge, the wandering i mean. I am on 3rd box and its better. The next one will be a RED HEAD steering box , they are supposed to be the ****. The clunking sway bar end links.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 373
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From: Alberta, Canada
Ok I'll check the sway bar a little closer. I didn't buy the u joints although I think your right I might as well replace them while i'm in there.
Other posts seem to talk about tightening of the drag link and possibly the steering stabilizer, all things I'm looking into.
I have a red head box on the way but with canada post on strike it has not arrived.
Other posts seem to talk about tightening of the drag link and possibly the steering stabilizer, all things I'm looking into.
I have a red head box on the way but with canada post on strike it has not arrived.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 373
Likes: 2
From: Alberta, Canada
Its been in transit for over 2 weeks, and i'm at least a 10-12hr drive from them.
Just gotta wait for the strike to end.
Just gotta wait for the strike to end.
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From: Alberta, Canada
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IMHO, your best bet is dealer and just beat them down to a good price.
Use the mail order OEM parts prices as your stick puff up your face and demand a discount, and the parts counter can often cut prices 20ish percent without trying hard.
Be very leery of non-Ford bearings that are substandard, the market is flooded with them.
I just did my front wheel bearings (they were not bad, but what the heck), and I went to a lot of trouble to make sure the boxes do not look fake, the parts passed inspection and is not obviously faked ---- the real good fakes are indistinguishable.
The parts are heavy to ship --- and there is where you get killed.
Use the mail order OEM parts prices as your stick puff up your face and demand a discount, and the parts counter can often cut prices 20ish percent without trying hard.
Be very leery of non-Ford bearings that are substandard, the market is flooded with them.
I just did my front wheel bearings (they were not bad, but what the heck), and I went to a lot of trouble to make sure the boxes do not look fake, the parts passed inspection and is not obviously faked ---- the real good fakes are indistinguishable.
The parts are heavy to ship --- and there is where you get killed.
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