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i'm runny ae scan tool and found that my icp volts are 26v before crank and 35 durring. icp regulator % is 14.84 before crank and 85.? during. my icp psi won't go above 300 during crank. so my question is are these normal except the pressure. and does it sound like i have hpo system leak or a clogged or bad ipr valve. thanks in advance
Those are bad numbers on the FICM - indicating it is bad. Should never be below 45 Volts.
Was it KOEO or cranking when you got those FICM numbers? (really doesn't mater though if you are below 45 V anytime)
Your ICP volts are not correct. The numbers should all be below 1 volt. Regardless, the pressure needs to be above 500 psig (0.82 volts) to start.
The IPR is way too high during crank. It shouldn't be above 30% (22-24 is more normal).
I think the IPR is bad - or you have a large high pressure oil leak or a bad pump. I would think that the IPR being bad is more likely, except for your base oil pressure not registering.
Do you see readings for the base oil pressure? I am not familiar w/ using the AE.
ficm main power is only 40v and logic and vehicle are both at 10v. if that makes a difference
With system voltage that low it sounds like you need to charge your batteries and retest. 10V is pretty low. The IPR should in %. ICP should be voltage, ICP actual and ICP desired. I definitely agree with Mark about the IPR being too high during crank. Do you have any codes?
thanks guys. i'm still not getting any base oil pressure on crank. i'm thinking about replacing the oil pressure sensor by the oil filter there and see if it is bad. it's only 20 dollars. i got a new ipr yesterday but then realized i had to order the socet to get it off. i had a 36mm but it was an impact and we didn't have anything strong enough to cut a slot in it. when i run a system test it says injecton control pressure regulator/open. i believe that is the correct wording. this thing really has me pulling my hair out. it just refuses to start.
i replaced the icp last night just in case it was it. but still no.
put all new injector o-ring kits on and torqued down.
If it were me, I would also change out that sending unit (like you are planning to do) - but I hate recommending just "parts changing" troubleshooting to others. Sometimes it is just easier that way- and it is pretty cheap.
That being said, I think that the low base oil pressure certainly could be related to a significant leak somewhere or the IPR. The air pressure test can reveal that.
Also - you should have an email.
Edit - Tim (npccpartsman) had a great catch there - get the batteries checked out!! Your voltages are too low.
thanks mark. i know your not up to date on the ae scan tool but do u know if you can close the ipr from it or do u need to make the pig tail deal you talk about in the tech folder? i guess im kind of confused on how to hook up that pig tail to close it if i need to do it that way. thanks again mark
You had part number in earlier thread on tech folder so no problem there. So u just hook on wire to positive and one to ground for 30 seconds and its closed?
thanks a ton mark!! should i pressure test it first or pull ipr first?? do u think if the oil pressure sensor was bad and not showing pressure would have anything to do with all this??
I would probably pressure test the system before pulling it. The ICP readings and IPR duty cycle is not impacted by the oil pressure READING, They are affected if for some reason the low pressure oil pump is trashed. IIRC, you really don't have any reason to suspect that do you?