Thanks for your input Sawmill I appreciate it. I know by changing the field coils in the original generator with ones from a 12 volt negative ground you can still use the same housing, bracketry, etc. I already have a 6 volt positive ground one wire GM alternator on my truck and it works well for what it is so all I have to do is swap out the 6 volt one for a 12 volt alternator and it's a done deal. I can still retain the stock voltage regulator on the firewall and just keep the battery wire connected to it and it works just fine. As far as the gauges are concerned $400 for 12 volt replacement ones is a bit out of my price range, the $25 I'm going to spend on a constant voltage regulator for the gauges is a whole lot cheaper and will work just fine for me as I don't drive the truck that often, maybe 200 miles a year. I'm not concerned about looking all original under the hood as the truck has already been somewhat modified to more suit my taste like mono leaf springs all the way around and other non evasive modifications like a 9 inch Ford differential with 3:70 gears instead of the Dana 44 axle with 4:27 gears, otherwise it looks basically stock. It's not a show truck nor will it ever be and I have no one I need to impress I just enjoy the truck for what it is and the sentimental value it holds.

 

Ah.. come on! Keep the 6-volt. Be different. Jag

 

Nah, It's been 6 volt for the past five years that I've owned it and prior to that as well, and I've have had nothing but trouble with it. Three batteries, three starters, new 1/0 battery cables, Pertronix ignition, and if it doesn't start right way and I have to grind on the starter for any length of time it drains the battery and then I have to charge the battery before I can try again. I'm just tired of the frustration. Although it's never happened yet, if I'm out somewhere and I drain the battery I can't get a jump from anyone cause I have a 6 volt system and not 12 volts. At that point I'm screwed and have to call triple A to have it towed home. So the 6 volt system needs to go.

 

I have jumped off of 12v before. If your battery is low, it will absorb the extra voltage just as long as there is some one to remove the jumper as soon as it fires. I also use an 8v battery and to do that correctly the voltage regulater has to be stepped up to put out 9.2v. I can understand wanting to go 12v which I have done many times. Only this time I have such a nice original truck I plan to stick with the 6v. Now I am in search of 16 inch rims as some one replaced them with 15's but that is down the road aways.

 

I have to say I never had a problem starting my truck on 6v, as long as the battery was charged. But the 6v battery, generator, and regulator were almost never all working. Since I went 12v I haven't spent a minute on anything electrical.

 

On the other hand, well over 50 yrs ago, my father (on a 50 F6) i remember being a
56 Ford 12vt gen & reg he put in there, same 6vt starter, nobody new about that
little regulator for the gauges, so it doesnt have one. Now this is 2011 and nothing has
burnt up yet. Although the temp gauge never worked correctly even when it was 6 vt.
I got around that years ago by a SW mech. gauge and I changed the face plate so
nobody will never know. I also recently added a one wire 80 amp alt. no special
brackets same org. clamp band just drilled a hole for the mount pin and changed
the pulley (this is a 239 V8). It has been said for years, it wont hurt the 6V starter
cause it starts faster. Just touch start button its running!!!

 

I'm kind of confused here on a couple of issues as I get conflicting information from different people. First is the circuit breakers behind the gauges and the need to change them from 6V to 12V, and second the starter relay, does it have to be changed along with the starter button to a two wire instead of just a one wire? A friend of mine has a 52 F-1 like mine and he converted it to 12V and left the 6V starter relay and button in it and he says it works, but others claim that it won't work, so henceforth my confusion. So can anyone give me a definitive answer?

 

I don't know if this will help with the confusion, but think of the six volt cuircuit as heavy duty and the 12 volt circuit as medium duty. All six volt wire will carry the 12 volt load, but 12 volt wire will not carry the six volt loads. Six volts uses twice as many amps, hence you need beefier wire. Jag

 

Where did you get your 80 amp alternator? I have been working on the charging system on my 1950 F2 V8 FH. Somebody converted it to 12v probably many years ago. When I took off the alternator it had 76 Regal written on it with some sort of paint marker. To make it fit they had cut off the pivot ears and just ignored the locating pin that you mentioned (left a big mark on the case). Had to go to three parts stores to find one that could test it. It tested OK but when I disassembled it there was some corrosion in the case. The cooling fan behind the pulley was rusty also. Overall it looks bad. It did make me wonder what I would do if I had to replace it. Any suggestions?