6 to 12 volt conversion
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Sacramento, California
6 to 12 volt conversion
Okay, I know this has probably been done to death and I'm sure I'll catch some flack for it but after perusing post after post on the subject I didn't find a definitive answer to my question. So bare with me here, I have a 52 F-1 that is still 6 volt positive ground, the wiring has all been replaced as of two years ago. Now aside from replacing the obvious things like the battery, switching to a one wire alternator, horn relay, starter solenoid, all the light bulbs, Pertonix ignition ,what else needs to be done? Do the circuit breakers on the back of the instrument panel need to be changed also? And how many "Runtz" are needed for the gauges and how do you properly attach them to each gauge? I wish to retain the stock gauges and not update them to anything else regardless of what people may say. This was my grandfather's truck and it's important to me to try to maintain its originality as much as possible, but I'm just sick of this 6 volt system. Any responses would be helpful but please hold the sarcasm.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,290
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
You need EITHER a constant voltage regulator (used by Ford from '57 into the '60's) that will serve all the gauges, or a separate Runtz for each of the oil, gas, and temp gauges. There is also an excellent solid-state device sold on eBay (I bought one) that costs the same as the CVR and serves all at once.
The stock circuit breakers are OK, if you trust them. Mine haven't been a problem, but my truck has new wiring too, so there haven't been any "opportunities" to test them. On the other hand, I have critical circuits (fuel pump, ignition, radio) on modern ATC fuses downstream of the CB's.
My experience is the stock horn relay is OK; the relay pull-in winding draws more on 12v but the horn draws less. I don't use the horn a lot.
You didn't mention coil; if you go Pertronix I'm pretty sure you'll have to replace it.
The stock circuit breakers are OK, if you trust them. Mine haven't been a problem, but my truck has new wiring too, so there haven't been any "opportunities" to test them. On the other hand, I have critical circuits (fuel pump, ignition, radio) on modern ATC fuses downstream of the CB's.
My experience is the stock horn relay is OK; the relay pull-in winding draws more on 12v but the horn draws less. I don't use the horn a lot.
You didn't mention coil; if you go Pertronix I'm pretty sure you'll have to replace it.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Sacramento, California
Thanks Ross for the info it is appreciated. On the CVR, which I am familiar with, how would you hook it up to the existing gauges, or would it be used in the power supply line to the gauges? I already have a 6 volt positive ground Pertonix unit in the distributor in conjunction with a Mallory 12 volt coil. Will the stock one wire starter button still work with 12 volts after you change the starter solenoid?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
Yikes, don't put 12v to that Pertronix, especially with the reversed polarity! Pretty sure that will smoke it off.
You can insert the CVR in the existing power to the gauges (the main that feeds them all), but polarity is important; on the NAPA ones, there is a (+) on one terminal that is where power goes in. Also the metal case of the CVR needs to ge grounded.
If you don't change the solenoid, the stock button will work. If you replace it with a 12v solenoid, it will likely require a two-button switch. I don't know if they make 12v solenoids that look and operate like the original 6v ones. If they do, they are likely chinese crap and I wouldn't recommend it. A new button is cheaper.
You can insert the CVR in the existing power to the gauges (the main that feeds them all), but polarity is important; on the NAPA ones, there is a (+) on one terminal that is where power goes in. Also the metal case of the CVR needs to ge grounded.
If you don't change the solenoid, the stock button will work. If you replace it with a 12v solenoid, it will likely require a two-button switch. I don't know if they make 12v solenoids that look and operate like the original 6v ones. If they do, they are likely chinese crap and I wouldn't recommend it. A new button is cheaper.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,793
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From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
Here is some info, go to the pfd listed at post # 2, it is very good.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...4&d=1307471855
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...4&d=1307471855
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 52
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From: Burns, Oregon
Ok, so I have another question for you all. Would the guages out a 1953 ford truck fit in the same spot that the guages out of my 1950 ford truck did, without any modification, or should I figure out another option? I am just trying to change it over to 12 volt without having any worries about those 12 to 6 reducers go out and burning up the 6 volt guages. The 1953 guages are replicas and designed to run on 12 volt. Thank you and have a great day!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,290
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
Ok, so I have another question for you all. Would the guages out a 1953 ford truck fit in the same spot that the guages out of my 1950 ford truck did, without any modification, or should I figure out another option? I am just trying to change it over to 12 volt without having any worries about those 12 to 6 reducers go out and burning up the 6 volt guages. The 1953 guages are replicas and designed to run on 12 volt. Thank you and have a great day!
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Burns, Oregon
Ok, thank you for your help Albuq F-1, I will look into my different options before I dig into something that may not work or would be hard to make it work. Now that I look at it, I may just go with one of those constant voltage regulators that you mentioned above, it seems that may be the easiest and cheapest way to go. Where does the CVR mount? Does it mount where the old 6v voltage regulator did?
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 277
Likes: 1
From: Sacramento, California
Yikes, don't put 12v to that Pertronix, especially with the reversed polarity! Pretty sure that will smoke it off.
You can insert the CVR in the existing power to the gauges (the main that feeds them all), but polarity is important; on the NAPA ones, there is a (+) on one terminal that is where power goes in. Also the metal case of the CVR needs to ge grounded.
If you don't change the solenoid, the stock button will work. If you replace it with a 12v solenoid, it will likely require a two-button switch. I don't know if they make 12v solenoids that look and operate like the original 6v ones. If they do, they are likely chinese crap and I wouldn't recommend it. A new button is cheaper.
You can insert the CVR in the existing power to the gauges (the main that feeds them all), but polarity is important; on the NAPA ones, there is a (+) on one terminal that is where power goes in. Also the metal case of the CVR needs to ge grounded.
If you don't change the solenoid, the stock button will work. If you replace it with a 12v solenoid, it will likely require a two-button switch. I don't know if they make 12v solenoids that look and operate like the original 6v ones. If they do, they are likely chinese crap and I wouldn't recommend it. A new button is cheaper.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 277
Likes: 1
From: Sacramento, California
Here is some info, go to the pfd listed at post # 2, it is very good.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...4&d=1307471855
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...4&d=1307471855
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,290
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
Here is the one I bought. It is adjustable and very small. My only "beef" with it is that it is not in any kind of enclosure, maybe for heat considerations, but I suspect more for being cheap concerns... Works great!
Ford Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator 5v | eBay
Ford Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator 5v | eBay
Seriously, it isn't hard
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 277
Likes: 1
From: Sacramento, California
I know it's not hard as I've rewired many vehicles in my time but I was mainly concerned with the gauges as I didn't want to do anything wrong that would cause the gray smoke to escape and henceforth it would no longer function. So all that being said I sincerely appreciate your help and input. Cheers!
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 25
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A long time friend of mine owns a starter/gen shop. He told me he can rework the 6v gen to 12v. That solves the bracket and belt situations. That also keeps it looking original. He also told me to make sure I change the starter relay or other wise some times it will not release when a 6v one is hit with 12v. The starter can handle the 12v as long as you do not grind on it too long at one time. The dash can be left alone if a resistor is used to take it back down to 6v. Same as the distrib. The voltage reg will have to changed to 12v. New 12v guages and speedo that looks just like original can be bought for $400 with the speedo reading the drive shaft. I have converted several but the truck I have now is too nice to not leave it totally original although I thought of going 12v and hiding the battery and leaving the 6v under the hood for looks.