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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #1  
Spider-Kenneth's Avatar
Spider-Kenneth
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From: Eagle Point, Oregon
Duraspark

I am gonna Duraspark my truck... But before doing so I want to have all the parts ready and everything set up. Has anyone done this? Can I get an idiot's guide? I can't read specs or wiring guides, I try but it's kinda gibberish to me. Also, does anyone have anything for the Duraspark for sale? I will see if I can buy it. Thanks
 
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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 08:29 PM
  #2  
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mdr617
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From: Maryland
bump.......
 
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 10:08 PM
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What year & engine?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 05:15 AM
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Lance Skene
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Im in the middle of this project right now but dont see alot of threads about it here tho so I bumped this one.

I picked up all new parts instead of salvaging from the wreckers, and new wiring supplies, truck is stripped down and ready to start installing the new gear, hope to get started on it tomorrow, today is looking more like a snow removal day on the garden tractors.

I got most of my info from other forums so I dont want to post links in case the mods here dont approve of that??? but I can supply part #s if ne1 needs them.

ne1 with experience is welcome to chime in
 
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 01:08 PM
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belchfire
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You want the smart box with the blue connector. It has only 2 connectors so no smog hooey. Be sure to run a ballast resistor or you'll burn up your coil.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 07:55 PM
  #6  
Lance Skene's Avatar
Lance Skene
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Originally Posted by belchfire
You want the smart box with the blue connector. It has only 2 connectors so no smog hooey. Be sure to run a ballast resistor or you'll burn up your coil.
Your the first person to mention needing a resistor with electronic ignition, my past research suggests that a resistor is only needed with a point system to reduce the voltage to the coil, Im putting in a complete new electronic ignition system, new distributor,new coil(12v), new ignition module(blue), new cap and rotor, and a new carb.

Can you explain more? I'll happily go pick one up if theres a need for it

TIA
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 03:15 PM
  #7  
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belchfire
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I converted my'73 to a '76 system and ran straight voltage to the unit. At the wrong time, of course, it crapped out and I had a long walk. It may have been the stock coil and I don't know if the newer type doesn't require one or if it's built in. I do know that the connector has 2 wires so I hooked the red one to the starter solenoid and ran the white one to the resistor. It's been working good for the last 10 years so it certainly didn't do any harm. Try it however you want but carry an extra coil just in case.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 06:59 PM
  #8  
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I might just add one in whether I need it or not, cant hurt right

still a big mess of wiring to clean out but I did have running for a few minutes today so Im happy about that, starts real nice too. Dont have the vacumn lines done yet so I didnt bother with a test drive just yet but it sounded good.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 10:54 AM
  #9  
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So its up and running, had it out for a couple test drives, went to town for the mail yesterday, and let it run till the temp came up, all the gauges and 'most' everything works.....dumby here forgot to save the elec choke wire so that has to be replaced. Lots of crap out of the way, looks alot better under the hood. Havent physically pulled the computer out yet but thats the easy part now.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 11:23 AM
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From: McKenzie River
Did you advance your timing a few degrees?
One of the advantages of Dura-sparking is that it no longer wants to spark-knock as easily as it did on the old TFI system for some reason.
I advanced mine to 13* on my 84 2.8 Ranger and it ran MUCH better, that was long before the cam, headers, .040 rebuild and the 390 holley 4v on the Offenhauser manifold were done.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 11:49 AM
  #11  
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Yep I noticed it is much better a few degrees advanced so I just set it where it feels good, trial and test method, and I just cranked the choke wide open since I dont have the wire for it right now... I might even just put a manual cable on it since I have a couple spares kickin around from my garden tractor addiction.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 12:01 PM
  #12  
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From: McKenzie River
Originally Posted by Lance Skene
Yep I noticed it is much better a few degrees advanced so I just set it where it feels good, trial and test method, and I just cranked the choke wide open since I dont have the wire for it right now... I might even just put a manual cable on it since I have a couple spares kickin around from my garden tractor addiction.
Did you get rid of the stock computer feedback 2150 carb? A old 2100/2150 non feedback motorcraft 2bbl with 1.01 venturis works very well in its place..........A shiny new 350cfm Holley 2bbl works even better!
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 03:12 PM
  #13  
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Yep, new 2150 carb, all new ignition parts, all new wiring and connectors. I started researching and collecting the parts for this about two years ago so I had a pretty good idea what needed to happen.

Much nicer to drive like this...I like it
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 07:45 PM
  #14  
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Lance Skene
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Finished up the project today with oil change, new oil, air and fuel filters, PCV valve, and spark plugs, set the idle at 900 and started cleanup around the shop. Done Deal
 
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 12:58 PM
  #15  
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Lance Skene
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Just an update... should have gone duraspark years ago, been drivin the B2 daily for almost a month now, close to 2000km and no issues or concerns, getting about 22/23mpg in 4x2 with rpm around 2300 at 100km per hour. I left it outside a few times in cold weather and it fires up better than Ive ever seen. Happy Happy!!
 
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