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another a/c question

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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 04:30 PM
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another a/c question

Searched the forums and found lots of info but just not enough to answer a question.
I have installed a new compressor, factory style, wasn't aware of the Saden conversion 13 years ago when I bought the replacement factory compressor.
New evaporator, dryer and expansion valve. The hoses and unit in dash have been open to air changes and day to day garage dirt for the last 13 years so I would say they are "dried out" inside of the old oil and freon.
I have three cans of r12 to use or the use of a 134a recovery system and recharge of 134a for free. So the question kinda is if I go with the 134a and am not happy can I go back evacuate and put in the r12 or vise versa. I ask cause I read alot about the oil compatibility and getting the PAG oil mixed with the ESTER oil.
As for the oil which is used with which and how much? And what would you guys do?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 10:12 AM
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Ester Oil is the one you want to use and you want to put 10 oz of it in the compressor sump. The oil will then get circulated through the system.

This is what I was told down in the A/C forum when I redid mine last year. Ester can be used with R12 or R134.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:10 AM
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X2 Ester Oil is compatible with both, however the OE hoses aren't designed for R134 so they will weep the charge.

Although some guys have no issue and others lose their charge within a week.

If the system is completely dry 3 cans won't be enough for R12.

Josh
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 02:01 PM
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hmmmmm.....if it were me, i'd be tempted to switch over to R134a now. That should require the new orings. Then i'd use the a/c flush/cleaner in the lines. Then pull a good vacuum. Then if it holds I'd charge it with the R134a with oil already in it. That way if you found any leaks afterwards it should be an easy, less expensive fix. Leaking R12 would be like leaking gold. In fact, if it were legal, I'd be tempted to sell the R12 cans. That would sure fetch a pretty penny right now.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 02:50 PM
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Josh, your words about the hoses weeping haunted me the whole way home. I was able to have the smaller diameter hose spliced/repaired at a reputable hose shop cause they were not able to duplicate it cause of the sight glass end. I say all that in asking what/ where that sight glass fitting can be found and is it needed since that was the way you used to see the bubbles as it was being charged. It also seems to have maybe a restrictor in there as well. As for the bigger hose I can have it remade to newer specs but felt why do that one if I cant have the smaller made. Alot of rambling I'm sure but dont want to waste time or the free charge up if it MIGHT not hold ya know.
Point me in the right way
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 02:59 PM
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You can get a drier (which your going to have to get anyway) with a sight glass in it.

Standard O-ring Receiver Drier - Receiver Driers
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 03:05 PM
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Plenty of R12 cans on eBay... I would say average about $20 per 12 oz can.

The prices have come down a touch since less vehicles have R12 or have already converted over.

Get ready for the new R-407 coming soon.

Josh

Josh
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 03:12 PM
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already installed the new dryer, condenser and expansion valve.
this hose issue has got me stumped now
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 03:17 PM
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Unless you pulled a vacuum as soon as you installed that drier its no good anymore. Which if you did already pull a vacuum and it's holding your going to lose that vacuum when you take the screw out of the compressor to put the oil in.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 03:22 PM
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Keep it coming but,,,,, the drier was shipped here from N.P.D. in a card board box simply a loosely fitting rubber cap on it.
I installed it to the evaperator hooked up the lines and made for a "sealed" unit but no there has not been a vacuum drawn on it yet.
Are you saying the drier is absorbing moisture from the air as we type?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 03:26 PM
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I haven't had any troubles with my OE hoses losing the charge with R134A for the past year or so. We'll see though over more time.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 03:29 PM
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The way I understand it is that the drier is the last thing you install right before you pull the vacuum on it.
Even if it isn't absorbing moisture from outside the system it has already absorbed what moisture was trapped in there when you put everything together.

Even if the one you have is perfectly fine the way it is. You still don't have the sight glass you were talking about, and the drier I linked to earlier has the sight glass you need and is only $15.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 03:42 PM
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aside from this sight glass issue and the hoses what about the thoughts on the new drier absorbing moisture and if so piggy backing a new drier to it? Back to the question of can that sight glass fitting on the factory hose be omitted and does it have a "restrictor" in it?
This will give me another new drier with a sight glass and maybe a direct hook up with a new hose but there is something in the end of that hose it damn sure aint straight thru.

Maybe I am being too overly cautious and should just hook it all up and throw a charge in it.

Come back
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 04:32 PM
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My 2004 Nissan Maxima doesn't have a sight glass for what it's worth.

The OE R12 hoses are hit n miss in regards to leakage of R134 in my observation.

Josh
 
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 04:39 PM
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One thing I didn't think about until just now is that you are probably running a factory style drier, not a universal one like the one I linked. I don't have any clue about running two driers.

You may be able to find some factory correct hoses on ebay, or from an FTE sponsor but they will probably cost a little more. If you decide to go with R134 you won't even need the sight glass anyway.
 
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