Okay so I'm trying to get this 66 fired up that I pulled from a field the other day and I can't figure out what he has done with the wiring. One side of the coil is correctly going to the dist. and the other is going straight to the battery. Isn't it supposed to run through the ignition somehow? I'm not getting any fire out of the coil so Im thinking this might be the culprit. I'm not a fan of wiring systems and don't mess with them when I dont have to, so if anyone can help me out I'd appreciate it.

 

That is called hotwiring - the old fashioned way to start a truck when you didn't have a key - legally or otherwise. Sounds like someone had ignition problems before and left it in that condition.

 

Time to get a wiring diagram, who knows what else is messed up.

 

Yeah the wiring is kinda hacked in places. But can anyone help me out out on why the is no fire from the coil? Bad coil or does it need a re-wire?

 

If you have a good battery in it and it is still "hot wired", and you are turning it over and getting no fire, check to see what the points look like. Running a hot wire will burn out the points fast. Pull the coil wire out of the dist, and hold it to ground and turn over the engine and see if you get fire from the coil. If not the coil maybe dead.

 

Thanks I'll give that a shot

 

Leaving that coil wired directly to the batt. will cause the coil to burn out! especially if it sits for any length of time! The wire going to the Batt. should actually be going to one of the two smaller legs on the front of the Solenoid.. the one that get's hot when you turn the key to the "on Position" not the start position. looks like someone bypassed the Solenoid , probably because it had gone bad. It may have caused the starter to turn, but it may not have be giving power to the coil, hence the reason for hot wiring. I hope that helps a bit!

 

Thanks everyone for the input, jetcopterpilot I think I'll mess with it here in a few (When the sun starts going down and it cools off) and see if I've got another coil laying around that I can swap out and rerun the wire to the solenoid and give it a try. The truck is for sale, just trying to get it running so it'll be a little more enticing to a prospective buyer but I don't want it to be a money pit trying to get it running.

 

Here's a pic of the circuit from 65/66 wiring manual, may find helpful: yu can see the wire jetcopterpilot mentioned running form coil to ignition switch and starter relay.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...gncharge-2.jpg

 

Yes then definitely keep it simple! If the Solenoid is bad, try a junk yard! That will keep the cost down. Although a new one is only 10- 20 Bucks at the local auto parts. Good luck with it! let me know how it goes!

 

Well y'all ain't gonna believe this, but the coil is fine. This jackwagon had the + side of the coil running to the battery, the ignition wire to the - side, and the distributor wire was cut and just hangin there. So after a quick fix CHACHING! Fire from the coil. The carb is so jambed up with crud that I had to pour some gas and spray some ether in it but she fired up and ran for about 3-5 seconds. That gives me hope. I've just got in from the garage (2 a.m. here) and am planning on picking up a carb rebuild kit at the Zone in in the morning. Hopefully she'll be purring or at least coughing and chocking, by tomorrow night. Thanks also to daveengelson for the wiring diagram, I needed that!

 

Spitting and sputtering is good, suggest replace the fuel filter and perhaps as an extra precaution install either a canaster or inline filter, at least until few tanks of gas has been run thru sys.

 

Well after the carb rebuild she is purring like a kitten. I put a new filter in before I started all this mess. New problem has arisen though, NO brakes period. Pedal goes to the floor so it Looks like a new master cylinder is in store. It's smokin quite a bit but I think after the new oil and cylinder lubricant gets through it a while it'll clear up for the most part. I'm sure the valve seals are dry, just hoping the rings are ok. Im surprised with it though, it starts at the turn of the key and idles nice, with no chatter and surprisingly not even an exhuast leak at the manifolds. Since my problem is solved I'll end this thread, thanks a bunch guys. Maybe she'll be roadworthy soon.

 

Awesome great to hear that! try some "Sea Foam" engine additive, to get rid of the smoke.. worked like a charm for me!

 

Exactly what I did last night, I run it every few tanks in my diesel truck so I keep it on hand. It hasn't cleared it all up but its WAY better than what it was