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2000 Excursion running rough

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Old May 31, 2011 | 07:00 AM
  #16  
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I had the same issue after I flushed out the radiator. Water got on one of the coil packs. They are infamous for shorting out when they get wet.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 08:40 AM
  #17  
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Nice! I just wish there was a way for to determine which one as some of them are a real BEAR to get at.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 08:53 AM
  #18  
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I've got a bad lazy streak. Instead of pulling the caps 1 at a time, I think that I'd take the X to the local parts shop and have them pull the codes. (Most shops have OBDC II readers and will do this as a service.) If you need a boot, coil, or plug you're already at the parts house. If it's just a loose connection, you'll have saved yourself some aggravation.

Besides, my local parts house is like Walmart -- can't go in there without finding something that I need.
 
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Old May 31, 2011 | 10:29 AM
  #19  
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The way I found out which one it was, is to crank the engine and one at a time remove the electrical connector from the COP. Which ever one didn't have an effect on the engine idol I replaced the COP. It was obvious when I removed the connector from a "good" one as opposed to a bad one.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 03:42 PM
  #20  
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So.....I took BassFantasizers suggestion and ran the ol' X up to AA to have them pull the codes and let me know what I needed. What an adventure that was....Got there and asked if they could pull the codes. The guy looked at me like I was nuts and said he had to go ask the manager to see if they even did that. The manager comes over and grabs the computer and we head out to the truck. He plugs it in and no code. Tries again, no code. Go figure! So instead of going home empty handed, I purchase an Accel Late-Model Ford Super Coil for $39.99. I am thinking that there is at least one that is bad. (I can't see where it would be more than one, I guess I could be wrong but, I will start there) I just have to figure out which one???????......On with the show.

Thanks for all of the guidance folks?
 

Last edited by djschumacher; Jun 4, 2011 at 03:44 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 10:23 PM
  #21  
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When my COP went bad it didn't throw a code.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 01:06 PM
  #22  
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Success! I was able to find the COP that was causing all of the problems. I tested by unplugging them one at a time and listening to the idle to detect a change. The lucky winner was number 8! I pulled number 8 and swapped it with number 5 (since that was the easiest to get to) tested again and now it was the number 5 that didn't change the idle. Grabbed my new COP installed it on 5 and now she is running like a champ.

This was quite a drawn out event but I would like to thank all of you that contributed and kept driving me in the right direction!
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 01:11 PM
  #23  
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And you saved yourself a couple of hundred bucks in the process.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 03:46 PM
  #24  
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Awesome!! Great job!
 
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 06:47 AM
  #25  
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Glad you go it fixed.

Perry
 
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 07:29 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jh818
You can try pulling each COP one at a time to see which one may be misfiring, if that is the issue. If you pull one and there is no change in how the engine idles, then that's the one.

I tried this and no matter what cop I disconnected there was no change in the idle. I don't want to drive it with a cop disconnected because that cylinder will flood with fuel then probably ignite in the catalytic converter. What else to do, I took it to get the codes read, nothing. I don't really know if it is a cop to begin with, my first thought was that the trans was "hunting" for a gear as the problem only happens between 40 and 50 miles an hour while under load but not while coasting or maintaining speed. Ahhh this problem is sooo anoying. I do have an exhaust leak also but don't think that could cause this problem.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 09:38 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Swagtastic
I tried this and no matter what cop I disconnected there was no change in the idle.
I don't know how that is possible? I can see possibly just one, maybe two would show no change, but all of them?

Or, did you mean when you pulled each one, the idle changed the same way regardless which one it was?

What you could do is get a single new COP and swap it with an old one, drive it so there's no concern about unburnt fuel and see if that makes a difference? If not, switch it to the next and repeat for all of them.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 10:26 PM
  #28  
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>>the problem only happens between 40 and 50 miles an hour while under load but not while coasting or maintaining speed.

Pulling each cop/plug in succession isn't likely to reveal much unless you get her up to speed and under load. As jh818 suggests, invest in a new COP and take turns swapping it for one of the existing COPs, then road test. You might put plugs in her, too.

Have you checked for a vacuum leak?
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 06:46 PM
  #29  
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So I went and got an Accell coil and will start swaping cops and test driving this weekend. And yes I also thought it was a vaccum leak, and I did actually find one coming from my ESOF solenoid but very sadly that actaully was not the solution to this problem. On the plus side, my air no longer blows through the defrost vents when going up an on ramp.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 08:58 PM
  #30  
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>>On the plus side, my air no longer blows through the defrost vents when going up an on ramp.

This time of year, that's a lot better than just "on the plus side."
 
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