]Still fighting to get all trash out of cooling system. I've done a few dozen flushes over 3 months and its still producing rusty chunks. My pricess is this:
1.Flush heater core til pure.(30 (minutes)
2.Flush radiator til pure.(45 minutes)
3.back flush oil cooler with water and air mix.(30mins)
4.flush block with both rear drains out. Includs cranking and reving engine.(25 minutes)
5.flush all tap out with destilled and add 4 gallons of zerex g05.

Ive done that procedure about 10 times. Ive spent hundred of dollars on antifreeze, distilled water and chemical flushes like restore and restore+ and fords vc9. Found the most effective chemical flushes to be dawn dish detergent. Had to replace water pump as aggressive flushes caused my fleeze plug to leak.
Ive got $1000 total atleast just in flushing. Oh yeah, I replaced the oil cooler/ filter before I realized how much trash was in the system so that will be a redo one day. That will total almost $2000 when all said and done and I just pray that my deligence will pay off because as of now deltas are 40 at 65mph.and spots out of the degas. Can't tow anything which is why I bought it, and wife thanks Ive lost my mind.
Any encouragement would help.
Btw, bought the truck 4 months ago. Totally suckered.

 

I'm assuming your running a coolant filter?

 

Yep, on the second filter now.
Thanks for input and idea.

 

Do you have an EGR delete? Because if not that 40 delta is a HUGE problem if you keep driving it you will rupture it. I suspect by the coolant coming out of your degas bottle that you have not done so and are flashing you coolant thus over pressurizing the system causing the coolant to come out of the degas bottle top. If you rupture the cooler you can possible hydro-lock the motor and cause major damage.

 

Thanks Cat. I should have mentioned that. Yes, the EGR has been deleted. Before I bought it.

 

Do all temp sensors show same temp after a cold soak of 12+ Hours


If the oil cooler is plugged theres no flushing it must be replaced before deltas return to spec

 

I have read that about back flushing not working but I get 20 degree deltas for a few days after a flush. Then back to 40. I save every thing I flush out. I get about a hand full of rusty looking pieces. They do stick to a magnet. But when you roll it wuth your finger it crushes and resembles oil. This is the second engine.

 

Man, I hate to tell you this, but the oil cooler you put in is trash now. A new oil cooler should have a temp diff of about 5 degrees between coolant and oil. For you to flush it, it goes to 20 degrees then 40 a couple days later...none of that is any good. I'd say you're looking at-

1. Replacing ALL coolant hoses, including to heater core
2. Replacing radiator (I'd recommend Mishimoto, all aluminum, you can get for around $350)
3. Replacing oil cooler
4. Replacing thermostat (have you removed it for your flushes?)
5. Replacing heater core
6. Most likely head gaskets as well

For you to keep getting that sludge that looks like rust but gets oily you've got some serious issues.

 

Everybody has an opinion here's mine. I lost a cooler 2000 mi ago and it got nasty before I caught it. Didn't get a chance to flush before replacement. After cooler replacement drained everything, block, radiator, all hoses and coolant filter. Then used Dawn and powdered Cascade and distilled water. All the Dollar General stores in the area were suspicious of me ;-) .88 cents a gal I bought a lot. In the evening I filled it up no coolant. Drove it all day and 1 flush that night and refilled. Did this for 8 days. 5 final flushes with just distilled water added Rotela EC-1 so far so good. No more than a 10deg spread.
You are going to have to replace your cooler. You are doing right by trying to clean as much as you can before you replace.
Radiator, heater core replace mmmm not sure cleaning will tell. Head gaskets with no other symptoms probably not.

My opinion ��

 

In his first post he mentions what seems to be referring to puking out the Degas bottle. In a later post he mentions EGR is already deleted. If EGR is deleted only thing I know of that would cause puking is head gaskets, assuming degas bottle and cap are good. And not grossly overfull coolant level, of course.

I mentioned radiator and heater core because with all the crap he has coming out his radiator is most likely covered with gunk on the inside. I did all the flushing before I replaced my oil cooler. A few months later my radiator's plastic end tanks cracked so I replaced it. Out of curiosity I took it apart and inside the lower half still had a slime all over it. And I wasn't having all the stuff come out that he seems to be when I was flushing.

But his experience could be different than mine, I'm only experienced with mine.

 

Same here, only experience with mine. I had oily slime and no rust. Was giving him a option instead of spending money on chemicals. The rusty ***** have me scratching my head. Would not over heating cause puking?
Tfunk I was not knocking what you said, I was giving an option and a opinion.

 

Stop wasting your time and money on water flushing and coolant. Get that blown cooler out of there (oil in the coolant) and clean it up with simple green. The rusty ***** are oil from the blown oil cooler. Check to see if your making oil (oil level going up) on the stick.

For the radiator, remove the lower and upper hose and flush it from the top.

EGR deleted, after the trucks to full temp, carefully relieve the degas pressure. Then without making the temperature change much, drive the truck around some more. Then test the degas again.... if it releases a bunch of pressure and with no significant temp change, head gaskets are highly suspect as well.

Back flushing is a waste of time, you coolant is 190 and oil is 230*? When the truck is at 235* oil temps, most likely will set the wrench light. The truck will de-fuel attempting to cool itself. At 253*, you entering no mans land... bad things happen!

Be ready for a water pump, t-stat and hoses. You may be able to clean the radiator and heater core sufficiently. But if after oil cooler replacement and a good cleaning with simple green, your operating temp is high... they need replaced. Your spread between oil and coolant should be good at that point.

 

Oh, no worries...didn't mean to imply I took it that way...posts can come across different than what's in my head.

I'm thinking with what he's mentioned so far things are pretty bad. I immediately thought "blown oil cooler", but didn't mention it because he said temp difference went down to 20 after flushing. That doesn't make sense to me. But I'm pretty sure that's what he has...among other problems.

Oil overheating wouldn't cause puking...at least not to my knowledge, but I have definitely been wrong before. Maybe I've misread his posts, but I didn't get the feeling his coolant temp was high, only oil. If that's the case I'm thinking head gaskets. And the test WatsonR mentioned about relieving the pressure once up to temp, closing cap, driving a little more and seeing if pressure builds back up is what I just used to confirm that MY headgaskets are unfortunately blown.

 

Uou and I are on the same page, I hope my result resembles yours. Good work!

 

He's not on the same page as you... he replaced the cooler and then flushed it, big difference. After the oil cooler replacement, you should see 2-6* difference. He's at ten difference and when he's at a 15 difference, probably going to need to consider replacing that cooler again.

Your just waiting to confirm the milkshake in the oil pan... but it hasn't totally ruptured yet, you still have a chance.