Welcome to FTE! I also say keep the original flathead. If you are not wanting to do alot of the work yourself, then you REALLY don't want to pay someone to get into a more modern engine. It's a pandora's box...one upgrade or change leads to another and another...etc,etc. plus the old flathead 8's are really cool! yeah stick with it.

 

Hey Stan,
Most of these old trucks will require some work to get them driveable & safe. The most common projects are - Improve braking by installing a disc brake kit up front & a two chamber master cylinder & replacing brake lines, Improving highway performance by putting in new gears out back &/or replacing the rear axle with a 9 inch, Rebuilding your front axle with new king pins, tie rods, etc so it steers better & doesn't wander.

If you go the modern upgrade route - replacing engines, mustang II independent front suspension, it's like pulling a string & you end up replacing all sorts of things & it takes forever. (MY personal experience).

You have that rare opportunity with all the original drive train to rebuld it to better than new & get it driving much quicker. Good luck over there.

Ben in Austin

 

Thanks for all of the great information. Please bear with me as I ask more questions.
My uncle told me that the truck has 15 inch wheels on it. He did not tell me the size of the tires. What modern day equivalent should I run on the truck.
I have decided against reproduction wide whitewalls for the present because of the cost. I might do that a few years down the road. I first want to concentrate on other matters, engine, transmission, etc. However, the truck must have a set of new tires. What size (78 series, etc.) and type (radial, etc.) would you recommend that I can get economically at my local tire store?
I need a specific size because my tire man asked me what I wanted. Anyone know what the trucks originally came with?
Also, the VIN begins with a 9 and the truck has a 3-speed in the floor. That tells me it is a 1949 but it is licensed as a 1950.
I want to correct the title. Am I correct that it is a 1949?

 

Let's see what I can share. Original tires were a 6.00-6.50x16. Height wise, for your 15" wheels, that equates to a 235-75x15 radial. They will fill the wheel opening nicely and look good, but will be a little fatter than stock.

Both 1949 and 1950 truck serial numbers started with 9. The consecutive unit numbers were a continuation for the second year, 1950. If your truck is titled as a '50, don't make a big fuss and go with it, 'cause it probably is one. Early '50's had 3 speed floor shifts for both the heavy and light duty transmissions. Later, toward the middle-end of 1950 production, the light duty trans was changed to remote column shift, while the heavy duty was still in the floor. You can't use that as a deciding factor. If you post your full serial number, mtflat (Tim) may be able to help you narrow down your build date a bit closer. He's been collecting that data on '49-50 trucks for several years. There's also a series of numbers stamped on the firewall that will be important, too, so post those, as well.

 

It will save you more time i the long run to do a stock rebuild.
You can replace things as you go and they will fit back nicely.
unless you have the skills and equipment you can put anything you want on that truck.
I dont have the skills btu I am learning.
I bought my truck with a different engine in it and Thank goodness the PO didnt do a horrible job,All I have to do is improve/fix the little things he did.But is a pain in the butt to go to the store and ask for parts especially with the people working there now a days.
I vote for keeping the flathead they just look and sound right for your truck.
Especially since its going to be an occasional driver.
Good luck and post some pics

 

If I were you I would wait to make any decisions untill it is in your posession and you drive it around a bit. You will get a much better feel for what you want it to become. I would love to have an original F1 to drive around town a bit, but when I take off down the road I will be in my 53 with late drivetrain and a/c.

 

It's difficult to find a machine shop anymore that has the knowledge and equipment to rebuild a Flathead. I think you will find a minimum of 3000 and will likely end up with $5,000 in a engine rebuild. You can almost guarantee the motor will need bored so new pistons, rods, crankshaft turned, new camshaft, valves, adjustable lifters etc. and it all adds up fast. By the time you change all the things to install a modern motor and transmission, buy a rebuilt motor and accessories transmission etc. you will end up with that much or more in the engine swap.
I have a 55 pickup with all late model stuff, and a 46 mercury car all original. I have driven the mercury on a 3,000 mile trip with no issues and would drive the 55 the same distance. The only thing about the 55 is it has ac so in hot weather be more comfortable. Keep in mind they drove these old trucks across the country when they were new, you just have to adjust your driving habits. There is nothing like a good running and driving flathead.
Good luck what ever you decide but these things are not cheap, not matter which way you go they are time consuming and expensive to build, but well worth it in the end.

 

i agree totally with the above, you really do need to get a feel for the truck and THEN decide which way to jump. Stock is great but it does take some getting used to in modern day traffic cos everyone else is in a big hurry.

The C4 conversion is very worthwhile behind the flattie.
And be aware that the rebuild cost on a flattie can very quickly add up, i personally think around the 5k is pretty close. A friend here recently spent $4800 and still has a ways to go with intake and heads.

Like others have said, it costs more than you think and takes even longer BUT its all worth it in the end. John