Box Replacement
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 132
Likes: 5
Box Replacement
I'm thinking of replacing my largely shot-all-to-hell box with a sturdy, gently used one. I'm anticipating a fairly easy go of it (naive fool that I am). The fuel line from the fill-up opening to the tank will have to be dealt with, I anticipate, but are there any other things I should be aware of?
Many thanks,
-Mike
Many thanks,
-Mike
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 26
Ground straps are small metal woven strips with eyelet connectors on each end that help ensure two parts stay at the same relative electrical potential.
Bed swaps are easy. Slather the bolts you INSTALL with anti-seize. If you ever need to pull that bed for a fuel pump change you'll be glad you did. I do it to all my trucks since it takes little time with an impact wrench. I try to get the bolts with the replacement beds in case I need them.
Bed swaps are easy. Slather the bolts you INSTALL with anti-seize. If you ever need to pull that bed for a fuel pump change you'll be glad you did. I do it to all my trucks since it takes little time with an impact wrench. I try to get the bolts with the replacement beds in case I need them.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 26
You can reuse any good bolts, but since you live in the land of rust they may not all be good.
The bed will stay attached for transport with only two bolts, which is how we've gone to salvage yards to switch beds.
The bed will stay attached for transport with only two bolts, which is how we've gone to salvage yards to switch beds.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 132
Likes: 5
Makes sense about the bolts.
How feasiable is it to transport the "new" box on top of the existing box? Could I use ratchet straps to secure it tightly? The box I'm looking at buying is about 70 miles away or so. I'd like to haul it home to the yard if I could.
What do you think?
-Mike
How feasiable is it to transport the "new" box on top of the existing box? Could I use ratchet straps to secure it tightly? The box I'm looking at buying is about 70 miles away or so. I'd like to haul it home to the yard if I could.
What do you think?
-Mike
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
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If I could abandon the old bed where I was buying the new one, I'd pull ALL the hardware from mine at home to ensure it'll come off, then tack the bed back on with two greased bolts at opposite corners. Scrap is high enough that the seller of your bed might not mind a free junker. I'd take it. They make nice scrap dumpsters.
Drive out, swap beds, drive back. Leave your original tailgate at home of course.
If you can't do that, I'd pull the old bed, carefully pull the tail lights and harness, duct tape them to my bumper, and press on.
Drive out, install bed, drive back. Remove tailgate when lifting the bed to save your back. Don't forget to either swap the lock from your old tailgate or get a key with your replacement.
Strapping a bed atop another bed with a couple of 2x4s between them has been done, but I wouldn't and it's much more work besides being awkward.
I take 'em off single handed by lifting each side and shoving wood blocks between the bed and frame, but one man on each side can just pick them up and walk back with them. If you have a bad back, unbolt the bumper.
You are gonna have to pull your old hardware anyway, so do that first and you'll see what's involved. Installs are a breeze because you aren't fighting stuck hardware.
Drive out, swap beds, drive back. Leave your original tailgate at home of course.
If you can't do that, I'd pull the old bed, carefully pull the tail lights and harness, duct tape them to my bumper, and press on.
Drive out, install bed, drive back. Remove tailgate when lifting the bed to save your back. Don't forget to either swap the lock from your old tailgate or get a key with your replacement.
Strapping a bed atop another bed with a couple of 2x4s between them has been done, but I wouldn't and it's much more work besides being awkward.
I take 'em off single handed by lifting each side and shoving wood blocks between the bed and frame, but one man on each side can just pick them up and walk back with them. If you have a bad back, unbolt the bumper.
You are gonna have to pull your old hardware anyway, so do that first and you'll see what's involved. Installs are a breeze because you aren't fighting stuck hardware.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
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Cool. Take some pics for the next guy!
Also, get penetrant to every bolt thread you can for ease of removal. If you can get the bed bolts up a couple of threads, spray it so it runs down the shank into the threads. Use LOTS of penetrant.
Make SURE the bolt heads don't have a bunch of crapp in them and the the Torx bit is held straight up so you don't strip them. A half-inch drive ratchet or 3/8 with cheater pipe works for me.
Also, get penetrant to every bolt thread you can for ease of removal. If you can get the bed bolts up a couple of threads, spray it so it runs down the shank into the threads. Use LOTS of penetrant.
Make SURE the bolt heads don't have a bunch of crapp in them and the the Torx bit is held straight up so you don't strip them. A half-inch drive ratchet or 3/8 with cheater pipe works for me.
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rootbeer
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