How does a exhaust brake work?
Im not sure what part of this is confusing some of you more learned guys?
Im gettting more confused?

 

I think somewhere along the way, your mechanic is confusing the EBPV for the wastegate. Sounds to me like you are referring more towards that anyway. If you close the EBPV it acts like an exhaust brake and will slow the truck down and show a power loss.

 

Is it possible that the EBPV is disabled when the waste gate actuator is in error status?? That would explain it. If I wasn't so lazy, I'd go out to the shop and check my manual.

How about someone with a picture of the EBPV connector post that up so he can try unplugging that?

 

So does unplugging my wastegate disable the EBPV?
Isnt there a EPBV delete?
Is the EBPV the thing that keeps the truck revved up while warming up?
If so , mine works well.

 

but ........I unplugged the wastegate switch according to my picture..........

 

This will help us. Plug the waste gate actuator back up and look for this connector. It is directly in the middle of the engine's V and 2/3 of an arm length down there.



Never mind the "extra" stuff. The shinny aluminum mount is the base for your turbo, and is back there under a LOT of stuff. Right in the front of it is a two wire connector that was a locking hoop that flips up. Even if you can't see all this, you could just use your hand, follow the mount, and when you feel the wires, feel for the hoop, grab, pull up and back (toward the front of the engine), and then the plug just pulls out. Nothing to squeeze or break. You can just leave the plug hanging there.

This will settle it for certain. Just make sure the waste gate is plugged back in afterwards.

 

ive got ae hooked up now, and working. just let me know, only takes a couple seconds to read codes.... just beginning to learn the rest

 

u would think the back pressure being like that would make a horrible noise, this is definitely interesting

 

It could be 2 issues. If his wastegate when plugged up is dumping all his boost he could have no power from no boost. He could also have diff issues that make the lack of power seem exacerbated. To diagnose a tight diff, you need to jack it up and pull the driveshaft off. There is a rotational spec for how hard it is to turn the yoke if you put a torque wrench on it.

Typcially, you do that test with the rotors off to eliminate brake drag as an issue so you can focus just on the drag in the diff and wheel bearings. That test would put the rear end issue to rest once and for all.

 

And then today.....................
I plugged it back in and everything seems to be working ok.
I drove it about a hour at highway speeds , so now Im really confused because there for sure was something dragging..............

 

That is interesting!

 

did u have something wedged in under there? now it got free?

 

Im backkkkkkkkkkkkkk.............................

I plugged it back in and it seems OK sometimes but other times it doesnt.

So ........I unplugged the red line (not wire) that goes to the end of the wasrtegate and it for sure makes a diffrence.

Its got me confused worse now?

 

So is it better with the red line plugged in to the waste gate or unplugged? Also when you do have it unplugged from the turbo, do you have the red line capped or plugged? Just trying to get all the details an still very confused!

 

That line shouldn't make one bit of difference at all. You must have a problem, like said before with the ebpv period. You said your back wheels turn free after the rear end rebuild so the only thing left that would slow your truck down is the ebpv, people do use this for an exhaust brake. Remove it or make sure it is open.