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I have 1955 f100 with volare front end I will list what I have and what I have done to see if anyone has ran into this before , volare clip GM duel master cylinder, 8 inch power booster ,3/16 lines( steel ) rebuilt calipers ,new rubber brake lines residual valve I have checked clearance on rod between m/c and booster 1/8 inch there is play in peddle to m/c when sitting still front wheels turn fine after driving 2 miles front brakes start to lock up further you go hotter they get let cool off ok again same thing again when I go down the road. tryed experamint yesterday when they cooled off I went down road never touching brake and they started dragging again any ideas Thanks Michael
so, it sounds like the booster is pushing on the master rod. just for grins, unplug the booster vacuum, plug the manifold or hose depending on which end you disconnect, leaving the booster with no vacuum.. practice stopping without boost.. make sure you know what you're getting yourself into. test drive
also, maybe the pedal is bouncing against the booster (unlikely)
the booster is probably heating up from the drive. is this under the floor?
Make sure a 2 lb residual valve is plumbed into the front and not a 10 lb. I think you could also increase the clearance on the MC push rod to 1/4 inch. That would help some...
Make sure a 2 lb residual valve is plumbed into the front and not a 10 lb. I think you could also increase the clearance on the MC push rod to 1/4 inch. That would help some...
good points.. I missed the residual comment, so this must be under floor..
and you could back off the clearance, finding that clearance balance in city traffic is pain.
so, it sounds like the booster is pushing on the master rod. just for grins, unplug the booster vacuum, plug the manifold or hose depending on which end you disconnect, leaving the booster with no vacuum.. practice stopping without boost.. make sure you know what you're getting yourself into. test drive
also, maybe the pedal is bouncing against the booster (unlikely)
the booster is probably heating up from the drive. is this under the floor?
Sam
I am having trouble getting a full pedal so i don't want to have anymore play than needed on booster rod I understand as little as 1/16 is ok when this happens I have gotten out and checked for heat in the lines, booster/master cylinder and the only thing that is hot are the calipers ??
I am having trouble getting a full pedal so i don't want to have anymore play than needed on booster rod I understand as little as 1/16 is ok when this happens I have gotten out and checked for heat in the lines, booster/master cylinder and the only thing that is hot are the calipers ??
well, the fluid is designed NOT to expand or contract. so that ain't it.
you've replaced all the wheel end parts, so THAT ain't it..
we're down to the booster, master or residual valve. never heard of a residual doing this..
I thinking the residual check like mentioned. Are you sure its a 2lb in the front? Are you sure its plumbed in line in the proper direction? This sounds just like when we used to use the single resivoir fruit jar master cylinders with discs and you had not removed the check valve, the front brakes would apply and heat up.
Making sure the back brakes (if drum) are adjusted up all the way will bring up a low pedal. The huge Volare caliper puck requires quite a bit of fluid to move, hence more pedal travel when applying.
unhooked vacume line booster went down road came back jacked up truck all 4 wheels dragging bad, cracked front brake line front wheels freed up figured m/c not releaseing pressure got in truck pumped pedal 20 times didn't lock up wheels only drags when driving down road ????
unhooked vacume line booster went down road came back jacked up truck all 4 wheels dragging bad, cracked front brake line front wheels freed up figured m/c not releaseing pressure got in truck pumped pedal 20 times didn't lock up wheels only drags when driving down road ????
Well, that means its the residuals probably. Are u sure they are 2lb for disk?
Are you using a combination valve with the GM master cylinder? Is is possible you have the combination valve plumbed incorrectly? Do you have a high heat source close to a front brake line (like exhaust headers)? I have had a similar problem on two ocassions. On one the front brake lines were clogged and on the second the MC push rod was too long. I have run out of ideas as to what it could be.
Are you using a combination valve with the GM master cylinder? Is is possible you have the combination valve plumbed incorrectly? Do you have a high heat source close to a front brake line (like exhaust headers)? I have had a similar problem on two ocassions. On one the front brake lines were clogged and on the second the MC push rod was too long. I have run out of ideas as to what it could be.
If you figure out what it is I'd surely like to know. Somehow the fluid is expanding in the lines causing pressure that is not being relieved or once the fluid leaves the MC, something is not allowing it to drain back...
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