Battery cable melted
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Battery cable melted
So, I've been trying to figure out why my battery light on my 05 F-350 Diesel will randomly start flickering on and off every now and then and twice now, I've ended up stranded because it seems like my alternator stops charging and my battery amps just start dropping fast. Well, first thought was the alternator had it tested supposedly it's good however I don't think it is. I've now noticed my battery cable that runs from the alternator to the passenger side battery is melted at both ends. I noticed this when I had the truck running for less than a minute and touched that specific cable it burnt my fingers it was so hot (it hadn't been turned on for a few days prior to that either) Anyway, does anyone know what would cause this? I've been told my battery amps should stay steady however, on my EDGE programmer I see them jumping for low 12's to 15's. Is this maybe a problem with the voltage regular? Should I just replace the alternator?
Both ends look like this. Should I replace the cable or just cut the ends off?
Both ends look like this. Should I replace the cable or just cut the ends off?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,524
Likes: 2
From: CA Bay Area
Sure looks like bad crimping job. You might try to resolve it by re-soldering the wires, but if you don't have good practice in soldering, just get a new cable.
The alternators are 120 amps rated. That is pretty good current.
The alternators are 120 amps rated. That is pretty good current.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 11
From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
I'm with Kajtek.... that looks like classic high resistance failure. Replace wire and clean all terminals to assure good connections.
Bad connection = high resistance = heat generation at point of high resistance.
Bad connection = high resistance = heat generation at point of high resistance.
9 ECHO 1
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 12,467
Likes: 58
From: Missouri
The stock cables really aren't designed for a lot of extra load. They of course can take some extra but if youre running lots of lights or a big sound system consider uping the size of your main wires. They are called "The Big Three" they are the alternator positive to battery positive, battery negative to chassis, and engine to chassis. Its a simple upgrade, but will allow your system to run more current without getting to hot.
Here is a good post about it:
How to upgrade the Big Three
Here is a good post about it:
How to upgrade the Big Three
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,524
Likes: 2
From: CA Bay Area
I disagree that the cable is too small for application. If you look right behind the connector, the cable insulation is in perfect condition, meaning the cable itself never got hot. It is just the end of the wire/connector joint that created the heat.
This is why all critical connections are soldered not just pressed.
This is why all critical connections are soldered not just pressed.
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Stephensville WI
The last time I saw a cable like that, I had a battery with an internal intermittent short.
I disagree with the "high resistance' theory. High amperage is what melted the cable. Ohm's Law says R = E/I, or resistance equals voltage over amperage. Amperage is calculated as I = V/R, so high resistance would mean low current, not high current.
I disagree with the "high resistance' theory. High amperage is what melted the cable. Ohm's Law says R = E/I, or resistance equals voltage over amperage. Amperage is calculated as I = V/R, so high resistance would mean low current, not high current.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 11
From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
The last time I saw a cable like that, I had a battery with an internal intermittent short.
I disagree with the "high resistance' theory. High amperage is what melted the cable. Ohm's Law says R = E/I, or resistance equals voltage over amperage. Amperage is calculated as I = V/R, so high resistance would mean low current, not high current.
I disagree with the "high resistance' theory. High amperage is what melted the cable. Ohm's Law says R = E/I, or resistance equals voltage over amperage. Amperage is calculated as I = V/R, so high resistance would mean low current, not high current.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 11
From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
P=IV
V=IR
Therefore, P = I (squared) * R
So the heat (power) is a factor of both the current AND the resistance. Current is the more significant factor, but R matters as well. Matters a lot if a bad/loose/corroded connection.
V=IR
Therefore, P = I (squared) * R
So the heat (power) is a factor of both the current AND the resistance. Current is the more significant factor, but R matters as well. Matters a lot if a bad/loose/corroded connection.
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