80 F-250 fuel problems
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80 F-250 fuel problems
i have a 351M with edelbrock manafold and 1406 edebrock carb.truck started dieing when i put it into gear and has gotten to the point of not wanting to start at all.seems like its flooding itself.ive replaced the carb with the same one already on and the fuel pump. it has spark and fuel but will not start or if does dies as soon as i put it into gear.
any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
What is telling you it's flooding? How does it die when put into gear? Does it sputter and gasp as if it's running out of gas, or does it stop as if it were electrically shut off?
Do you have a tachometer? if so, does the needle immediately drop to 0 as soon as you shift out of Park?
When you shift out of Park, does the key tumbler by chance twist back towards you as if you were shutting it off?
Did this start happening all by itself or have things been changed and the problem appeared since those changes?
Do you have a tachometer? if so, does the needle immediately drop to 0 as soon as you shift out of Park?
When you shift out of Park, does the key tumbler by chance twist back towards you as if you were shutting it off?
Did this start happening all by itself or have things been changed and the problem appeared since those changes?
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it blows black smoke out when startng,theres no puttering or anything it just stops running.went from drivable with shiftng into nuetral when not on the gas to not even wanting to start at this point.
the problem just started by itself and has not been improved by anything ive done.i also changed the pickup coil.
the problem just started by itself and has not been improved by anything ive done.i also changed the pickup coil.
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Black smoke is unburned fuel.
But, if you replaced the entire carburetor and the problem is still there, assuming the replacement is known to be good, then the problem is not in the carb.
Does it behave this way only when the engine is warm, or does this happen when cold, too?
You threw some ignition parts at it, have you replaced the ignition module?
But, if you replaced the entire carburetor and the problem is still there, assuming the replacement is known to be good, then the problem is not in the carb.
Does it behave this way only when the engine is warm, or does this happen when cold, too?
You threw some ignition parts at it, have you replaced the ignition module?
The three step scenario of a failing ignition module:
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost at once.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in an hour or so.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner...module overheats...BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not re-start.
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost at once.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in an hour or so.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner...module overheats...BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not re-start.
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havent done te module,it is still starting but have to have the pedal to the floor then its run great and die out of now where,25 secs to 5 minutes.
was just told that the catalatic converter could be a problem also? ive heard you can drill holes into it?
was just told that the catalatic converter could be a problem also? ive heard you can drill holes into it?
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
If there were a restriction caused by the catalytic converter or some such, then I'd expect your problems to be consistent - all the time, not 25 seconds to 5 minutes (for example) of running time.
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you were right about the module being bad,and that i think went because of the tumbler also being bad.thank you for your help you saved me alot of time and money 
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Thanks for the update, feel free to send some of that saved money my way - I prefer cash but accept PayPal. 
J/K, thanks again for the update!
J/K, thanks again for the update!
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