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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 11:45 AM
  #1  
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GUNNER81
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Cool i need help bad

so i have a 1986 ford f150 4x4 4.9l straight 6. heres the problem, i can't get it to start. i have replaced, plugs and wires,cap, rotor, distributor, tfi module, fuel pump,coil, and battery. ive tried and tried, it started a couple times but only runs for a couple minutes then dies and wont start till 2-3 days later.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 11:59 AM
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Cerran
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Do you get a good clean spark when you crank the engine?

Have you replaced the coil or had it checked?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 12:02 PM
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Just to clarify the problem, did you replace all of the listed parts because it wouldn't run, or was it running OK until you replaced those parts and now it doesn't run?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 12:26 PM
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It sounds to me like a bad module... where'd you get the module from?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 04:13 PM
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im getting good spark and the modual is good, i replaced the parts but it was running before. i put a srewdriver in the the butterfly to keep the carb open and put the pedal on the floor, she wants to start with a spudder as long as the starter is turning. pulled the plugs, their soaked how can i dry the cylinder and ya'll think that was the proplem, flooded i mean?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 04:42 PM
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To dry out the combustion chamber's, take out the spark plugs and let the fuel evaporate. Than put the spark plugs back in.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 06:21 PM
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kedwinh
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You said you replaced the distributor, are you sure it's in correctly? Have you tried moving it to see if that helps? You sure the plug wires are right and start at #1 on the cap?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 07:36 PM
  #8  
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billt28
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Originally Posted by kedwinh
You said you replaced the distributor, are you sure it's in correctly? Have you tried moving it to see if that helps? You sure the plug wires are right and start at #1 on the cap?
I'm pretty sure he means the distributor cap.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 12:52 AM
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Did you replace the spark plug wires one at a time? If not, you could have gotten the firing order wrong.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 07:36 AM
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i replaced plug wires one at a time.have them numbered with a white out pen. distributor is in corregtly and the rotor blade points at the number 1 plug on the cap. still n o spark
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 09:36 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by GUNNER81
im getting good spark and the modual is good, i replaced the parts but it was running before. i put a srewdriver in the the butterfly to keep the carb open and put the pedal on the floor, she wants to start with a spudder as long as the starter is turning. pulled the plugs, their soaked how can i dry the cylinder and ya'll think that was the proplem, flooded i mean?
Originally Posted by GUNNER81
i replaced plug wires one at a time.have them numbered with a white out pen. distributor is in corregtly and the rotor blade points at the number 1 plug on the cap. still n o spark
Which is it? Are you getting spark or not?, you are contradicting yourself and not being clear on what "exactly" you did.

For the distributor to be on correctly the no 1 cylinder needs to be at tdc on the compression stroke when the rotor is pointing at the no 1 plug wire.

Did you have your module tested? that is the only way to see that it is good, other than the truck running all of the time no problem. You have problems and they need to be worked out one at a time.

First off you need to see if your carb is leaking fuel. If too much fuel is dripping down inside when you are starting it, it will flood itself out all of the time. In which case you will need to rebuild your carb which is like 12 bucks if you do it yourself.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 10:06 AM
  #12  
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The three step scenario of a failing ignition module:

1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost at once.

2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in an hour or so.

3) Sooner or later, usually sooner...module overheats...BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not re-start.

Testing modules: Since the little darlin' only fails when it overheats, taking it to a parts store to be tested usually doesn't work...unless it has burnt out.

1984/89 F150/350, Bronco & Econoline 4.9L

E43Z-12A297-A .. TFI Module-mounts to dizzy (Motorcraft DY-425) / Marked: E3EF-12A297-A1A or A2A

This module is a notorious POS! Gazillions were replaced over the years, as it was installed in Passenger Cars, Trucks, Bronco's and Econolines.

In the late 1990's, Ford was forced by the NHTSA to recall FIVE million vehicles to replace it.

So...do not assume this little darlin' is any good, just because you just replaced it. And...was the following also replaced?

E5PZ-12A112-A .. Stator (aka Magnetic Pickup Coil), mounts inside dizzy (Motorcraft DU-30-A).

The symptoms can be the same for the module and/or the stator.

If the module was bought from an autoparts store, it's prolly not a Motorcraft module...and as bad as it was originally, most autoparts stores sell made in China crap.

Which means it might be NFG fresh oughtta the box!
 
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