I have a 89 f150 4.9. I got codes pulled and it said that my egr was bad so I went ahead and got a new one and a sensor. I didn't have any problems until I drove down the road.
I didn't think it would make my truck run any different. Under light acceleration it feels like someone is bouncing the petal. If you get on the gas it does not do it. When I got up to speed and held it, it was alright for a little bit then it would feel like someone was bouncing the petal. I dove on a newly paved road and my truck usually rides smooth on it. The petal has a little more resistance to it too. Also I noticed that there was a little bit of smoke coming out of the hood. I stopped and opened the hood and it was the egr valve. Im pretty sure it was burning some of the antisieze that i got on it. It's not smoking any more.

I have no idea what is going on. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Sorry I reposted from the 300 6 forum. Just want to get as many answers as I can.

 

What were your prior codes leading you to replace the EGR and the sensor?

Now, I'm gonna tell you this and you may not like it.

I purchased an Oreilly brand (Borg Warner), EGR and sensor for mine that was "supposedly bad". I noticed something very similar to your problem. Now after doing the test for the EVR (Egr Vaccum regular Solenoid) sensor, it was bad, so I replaced it. Same problem. I keep getting the codes 31 & 32. After adjusting, cleaning, and checking everything, I grabbed the old Motorcraft EGR valve. Checked and cleaned it. Re-installed with new sensor, Hasn't done the bouncey throttle again.

Long story short....
When I compared the other brand to my motorcraft EGR, there was noticable difference. The Stock one was longer an well heavier. When I cross-referenced the house brand-part, it checks out correctly, but it doesn't look the same. It was a headache for weeks even after tuning and adjusting the sensor housing. I'm glad my stock EGR was working since a new Motorcraft EGR is near $180, twice the cost of the other brand. But as my signature says, "Inferior parts fail sooner than later.."

I completely believe in OEM equipment and other manufacturers, but some parts should only be changed with the exact OEM equipment.

I hope this isn't your case, but if it is, I hope it's just as simple as swapping the EGR with a Motorcraft one.

 

Don't know the code numbers. The guy just told me that it said my egr was bad and I was running lean. For some reason the lean code went away.

I had a feeling that buying BWD my come back and bite me. I have had problems with non motorcraft parts before. I bought a new tps and iac valve and they weren't motorcraft and the truck ran the same. I switched to motorcraft and the truck started running like a champ.

Thanks for your help . Hopefully I can get this fixed tomorrow and it is a simple fix.

 

If you want to pull codes for free, you just need a piece of jumper wire(paper clip, for example) or you can use an analog voltmeter. If you read the sticky @ the top of the page for 87-96 F-150's, you may find it there on how to do it, or you can visit Ford Fuel Injection. There is very knowledgable info there, that I'm glad I checked when I 1st signed up for FTE.

Note: When my EGR went bad on my 4.9L, I did swap it with a new BWD EGR and I haven't had any problems since, but that was 7 years ago. I think that there were minor differences between EGR valves for the 5.0 and 5.8 during the production years of 87-96, but someone decides to "One size fits all.." except when you cross-reference my Stock EGR it's the same for 90-96, but Motocraft shows a different part number for different years for 87-96. This was one of those it didn't apply for "One size fits all"

Let us know what you find or if you need more info and we'll give ya a hollar!

NOTE: You can also purchase the Eqqus OBD1 code reader for about $27-35 and it will help GREATLY later down the road when you are trying to figure out what is wrong and don't have the time for the paperclip, etc. I bought mine and all my ford budies wanna use it...Cheap-A$$'s..LoL

 

Jas88 also has told me about Ford Fuel Injection. I pulled the codes my self today and got 34,67&34. 34 is PFE or EVP circuit above the closed limit of 0.67 volts. 67 is Neutral safety circuit failure.

I was also told about making a restricter plate for it and it solves the problem. On the forum I was reading this one they said that the egr lets too much exhaust gases in and makes the truck run lean. So if you put a restricter plate in there it wont allow as much back in. They also pass emission with one in.

Hey if I lived closer I would have to be one of the cheap a$$'s too lol.

 

The reason you got 34 twice is that the ECU starts repeating the codes once it has shown you all of them. I think it repeats 5 times if you let it and then it erases them if you keep going. So once you see the 1st code you got again, that means you are done.

 

I put a restrictor plate between the intake and the egr valve and it solved my problem!
Thanks for all the help.

 

Glad to hear the restrictor plate worked. Remember using the restrictor plate will allow for hotter combustion temps and can lead/cause detonation. If you can find a similar model EGR @ the junkyard, I would be more apt to do so. Just cross reference the # for for a similar truck of that year and get it yanked. Any good junkyard that pulls it for you and it doesn't work will swap it for free. If you pull it yourself, then it will be cheaper but may have to get "2" in the end if the 1st one doesn't work.

Hope this helps.

 

Do you think I should make another 1/8" hole in it to let more through?

 

Im having the same problem with my 88 F150 300 6 going to put old EGR and restrictor plate back on and give it a try Thanks for the info I will let you know how it works

 

Since we are on the subject of EGR's, mine has failed emissions and when it passes it barely passes. I have replaced the vacuum thingy right by the EGR and no difference. I put a multimeter on the EGR ires to the pinnel sensor and it seemed to work perfectly. I can put a vacuum pump on the EGR and open it up a little for the testing and it passes inspection. Any suggestions are welcome as my current inspection is up at the end of June.

 

What part of the test are you failing on? NOx? HC? CO?

 

made restrictor plate with 3/8 hole runs like new

 

Ill have to see if I can find last years test results. The mechanic originaly said new catlytic converters so I spendseveral hundrd dollars to find out the kid was mistaken and that I was failing because of whatever gas the EGR controls. I may go fo a inspecion today and just use curent result. I hate doing that when I know I will probably fail.